The Janky Wheel Summer and The Not Janky Turkey Burger

 
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Summertime 2020 was epic, one for the record books. In my mind, I will always think of it as the "janky wheel" summer. 

COVID-19 kicked in full-tilt boogie. Instead of grills, bikinis, and tiki torches, we searched for hand sanitizer, toilet paper, ground beef, and normalcy.

What is more normal than whipping the old Chevy truck down to the local grocery and loading up the janky wheel cart with some burger fixin's? Maybe only the purchasing of toilet paper for our homes.

For a brief window in time during the summer of 2020, these items were unavailable due to the virus sweeping our nation. I don't know about y'all, but for me, this was a "What-the-actual-Hell" moment. 

I remember thinking to myself as I pushed my empty and creaking janky wheel cart through the store, that I would be damned if I were going to be denied the small pleasure of summertime hamburgers. With all the crazy happening in the world, it would not be hamburgers - or the lack thereof - that tipped me over the edge.

Something had to be done. It was time to use all my Southern woman, turn-the-water-into-wine, hard-scrabble resilience into a plan of attack.

Two things happened almost simultaneously. Firstly, I realized that I may, in fact, be the crazy person you hear Southerners talk about trotting out on the front porch for the world to see. And second, it occurred to me that I was flinging ground turkey into my janky wheel cart with wanton abandon.

Never in my life have I been a fan of turkey burgers, especially in place of a real 100% all-beef burger. In fact, I would go so far as to say that I possessed a deep and loathing hatred of the turkey burger and that even speaking it aloud into the universe, it rolled off my tongue with a little spit. 

I am not opposed to turkey being a healthier option in our daily lives, but I am opposed to food that does not taste good.

Up until this point, I had never had a turkey burger that tasted good. Please hear me, People of the Page, when I say to you that life is just too short to eat bad food.

After much soul searching, profanity, and necessity-being-the-mother-of-all-invention, I was able to create a recipe for turkey burgers that not only passes as edible but will get that slapping arm and foot-stomping reflex crunk-up.

I am thrilled to share it with y'all and to say that even in the darkest of times, there is hope. Good exists in the worst of situations, and as long as we keep pushing that creaking janky wheel cart forward, we are going to be alright.

Not Janky Turkey Burgers

Ingredients

1 lb. package ground turkey (look for 85-15% ratio)
8 oz. package mushrooms (I like baby bellas, but any mushroom is fine), chopped
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1- 5 to 6 oz. container of blue cheese crumbles (if you do not like blue cheese you can leave out or cut back on amount)
2 heaping TB ketchup
1 TB chopped garlic (glass jars in the produce section)
1 TB Worcestershire sauce
1 TB red wine
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1 egg, beaten
½ cup Panko breadcrumbs
Olive Oil
Lawry's Seasoned salt

Directions 

Heat a skillet or saute pan with just enough olive oil to cover the bottom (2-3 tablespoons). You want it hot, but not smoking. Add onions and mushrooms; cook until onions are translucent. Remove from heat and let cool for about 5 minutes; add the entire mixture to a food processor (do not drain the oil) and pulse until mixture is fine but not a paste.

In a separate bowl, add all the remaining ingredients and mix well with hands. Once thoroughly mixed, add mushroom mixture and combine well.  The mixture will seem a little wet to you, and that is fine. If you want the burgers to have a texture close to a beef hamburger, add just a little more Panko. Patty out just like you would a regular hamburger.

To cook, I use a hot cast iron skillet with just a touch of olive oil in the bottom. Sprinkle both sides of each burger with the Lawry's seasoned salt.

The burgers will form a nice crust, so do not worry - they are not burning. These need to be cooked all the way through since we are using turkey and cooking times will vary.

Use any bun you like and dress with any topping you like. There are no rules. It should be fun to make and taste good.

The burger in the photo is dressed with a blueberry chipotle mayo (½ cup mayo, 1 chipotle pepper-pureed, and a tablespoon or so of blueberry jam), honey bacon strips, shredded lettuce, thin-sliced peaches, and pickled red onion.

Tame the High-Strung: Blue Hair Boogie Chicken Salad

 
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The years I spent as a chef at The Downtown Grill in Oxford taught me many things about cooking and food. It also taught me many things about life and people – specifically, Southern Bridge Ladies.

Bridge Ladies were part of the core group of Grill regulars. Y’all! Some of these women were a stone-cold trip and high maintenance – Lord, have mercy. 

There are two things that will tame a group of high-strung, bless-your-heart Bridge Ladies on any given day: gin and good chicken salad - or as I like to call it - Blue Hair Boogie Salad.

The most cutthroat Southern WASP can be made to purr like a kitten with the correct ratio of these two items. The formula is two parts gin to one part Boogie Salad. If, by chance, it’s cold and rainy, add Captain’s Wafers to ensure a calming, trance-like state.

Making good chicken salad takes some time, guys, so if you are looking for a quick fix then this is not the recipe for you. But if you are ready to dig in and make chicken salad like your mama and them did, with a little extra effort, then I salute you with the recipe of my grandmother and the one we use at the BTC in Water Valley.

Blue Hair Boogie Salad or Dixie’s Chicken Salad

Ingredients:

1 whole chicken (use a good quality hen; I go for a medium-size bird)

Chicken poaching ingredients:
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 large sweet yellow onion, quartered
2 carrots, cut in half
2 outside stalks celery, cut in half
2 lemons, cut in half
6 whole peppercorns
1 tablespoon salt

Salad ingredients:
4 boiled eggs, peeled and chopped
1 cup sweet gherkin pickles, rough chopped
1/2 cup celery hearts with leaves, finely diced
2 cups mayonnaise
2 lemons, juiced
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 dash Tabasco
Salt to taste 

Directions:

In a large Dutch oven or stock pot, add chicken with poaching ingredients. You want to turn the heat up to medium and let the hen come to a slow and gentle boil. An angry, raging pot spitting chicken broth on your wall and stove does nothing but make the chicken salad dry. You want to cook the chicken until a leg will come off with a gentle pull. At this point take the entire pot off the stove and let it cool down for about 30 -45 minutes. Making the chicken salad while the bird is slightly warm – it’s one of the things that puts the boogie in the salad.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, you want to carefully remove and put into a separate bowl (use a big bowl so you will have some room to work). I use a strainer with a handle that so I can scoop the bird out of the pot and into the bowl. Hopefully, your bird is falling apart so do not try to lift out with tongs or you will be a helpless burn victim. Also, reserve your stock. It will make excellent chicken and dumplings or soup; just strain well and freeze for a later date.

Pick the hen clean, discard bones and skin.

The next step is a key step and what will give you the texture that you want for an old school Southern blue hair boogie chicken salad. Using either a handheld mixer (which is my choice for this) or a KitchenAid stand up mixer (using the whisk attachment), give it a quick once or twice around the bowl on a low speed. This will shred your chicken for you!

Then add remaining ingredients. Put on some gloves and mix it by hand.

For the mayo, I like to add it a little at a time until it gets to the texture I am looking for. Just know that when you refrigerate the salad, it will absorb some of the mayo, so always make sure you have enough to keep it moist; no one likes dry chicken salad. Sometimes it’s going to take a little less than 2 cups and sometimes a little more. It just depends on which way the wind is blowing.

Also, add enough salt for your particular comfort level, but please - in the name of all good things - add a little because again, who wants bland chicken salad? No one! That’s who.

This chicken salad will hold up to 7 days in the fridge, but really, y’all, if the boogie salad is still in the fridge after 7 days, you should not have wasted your time, and clearly there was no boogie to be had.

Enjoy! And remember, Bridge Ladies like to Boogie just like you.

One final word. I came to be quite fond of the DTG Bridge Ladies as time went on during my tenure as their chef. Many of them have gone on to their next adventure, and I will always chuckle as I remember the stories. I hope that in my bless-your-heart-blue-hair days, I can still be a pistol like these ladies.

Notes

  • Please use only Hellman’s Mayo or Duke’s as anything else would be Yankee blasphemy.

  • My preferred Gherkin pickle is Mt. Olive.

  • Celery hearts are the inside light green center in a bunch of celery.

To Jell or not to Jell: Dixie’s Cranberry Sauce

 
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My childhood Thanksgiving memories are filled with many things that still make me smile as turkey day approaches each year: Charlie Brown`s Thanksgiving - I always longed to have the turkey served with a side of popcorn from a ping pong table with the family dog; Macy`s Thanksgiving Day Parade - I still make my wife watch the entire thing with me each year; and jiggly, alien-like cranberry sauce out of a can. My grandmother always served it on a silver platter atop iceberg lettuce. Who knew that's actually what the good silver is reserved for - .99 cents a can cranberry sauce.

Growing up in deep south Mississippi in the 70`s, making cranberry sauce with fresh cranberries was not an option. I was well into adulthood when I discovered that this mythical fruit does exist and that you could make a fresh version of the jellied, straight out-of-the-can sauce I grew up with in my Southern house.

My grandmother made everything from scratch, and she loved food. In today`s food culture, she would have been designated as a “foodie.” We made special trips to Memphis and Tupelo to eat at new and interesting restaurants that were getting out of the box of Southern food. I could order anything I wanted, the only rule being it had to be a dish or food I had never had before. She would have loved driving the family T-Bird down to Big Star to load up on fresh cranberries during the holidays. The recipe I created to use in my restaurant for Thanksgiving and the holiday season was made with her memory in mind and our family Thanksgiving table.

Just for the record - I love all cranberry sauce. I feel strongly that each one has its place at the table. Food should be fun, and you shouldn't feel guilty because you REALLY like cranberry out of a can. There is no shame in that game, folks. Food Made With Love.

Dixie’s Cranberry Sauce

Ingredients

2 bags fresh cranberries (12 oz. each)
2 cups white sugar
1 cup water
1 cup apple cider
1 orange (cut in half)
1 small lemon (cut in half)
2 large cinnamon sticks
1 1/2 slices of peeled ginger
1 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon ground allspice

Directions

In a medium pot, add all ingredients. Squeeze juice out of orange and lemon, then add citrus shells into berries. Cover with a lid. Cook slow and low, stirring frequently. I like to bring it to a just boil stage and then turn it down to low. Usually cooks about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Notes

  • You can adjust sugar to make it as unsweet or sweet as you like for your taste. Just add more or less sugar. Also feel free to use a sugar substitute if you have a family member with dietary restrictions.

  • The cranberry sauce can turn into napalm during the cooking process, so keep the lid on the pot which will ensure that you do not become a helpless burn victim on Thanksgiving Day. Also, it will save you from scrubbing cranberries off the walls in your kitchen well after the Fourth of July.

  • Feel free to serve canned cranberry sauce on the table next to your homemade version, if for no other reason but nostalgia. There are no rules for holiday cooking except that you do what makes you happy, drink the wine and eat ALL the cranberry sauce.

Turkey Time Is Here: Miss Vetra’s Cornbread Dressing

 
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The holiday season is upon us, and it’s turkey time – or, more importantly - it’s dressing time. Cornbread dressing is the Holy Grail of the Southern holiday meal. Let’s be honest: any long lost cousin twice-removed on your mama’s side can make the turkey, but not just anyone can make the dressing. It takes soul, love of food, and respect for the generations (past, present and future).

If you are asked to make the dressing, then you, my friend, are the keeper of the Holy Grail, which means you have a responsibility to make sure it’s not dry and has flavor. Let’s be frank here. You will most likely be using a family recipe that still has dirt around the edges from when your great grandmother unearthed it from the ground after the Yankees left town. No pressure.

Here is my Grandmother’s recipe for cornbread dressing with a few tips to make sure it’s perfect every time.

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Miss Vetra’s Cornbread Dressing

Ingredients:

1/4 cup (1/2 half stick ) unsalted butter
1 small onion, minced
4 celery hearts (with leaves), minced
1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and minced
6-8 cups chicken stock
1 (10oz) can cream of chicken soup
4 eggs (large), lightly beaten
1 heaping tablespoon dry rubbed sage
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 recipe of cornbread, use your family recipe

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Spray a 9 x 19 inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.

In a skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion, celery and bell pepper and cook, stirring, until soft, about 10-15 minutes.

In a large bowl, crumble the cornbread in small pieces and add the cooked vegetables, soup, stock, eggs and dry spices (salt, pepper, sage). Mix well. You may need to add a little less stock or a little more stock depending on the texture of your cornbread. You want the mixture to be wet but not soup. Pour the dressing into the prepared baking dish.

Bake until golden brown on top and with a slight jiggle in the center or until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, usually about 45 minutes. Be careful to not over-bake. Let the dressing sit for 30 minutes before serving.

Tips:

  • Make sure the mixture is moist before baking. If it’s dry before you cook it, then it’s going to be dry after it is cooked, and that is an offense to the entire family.

  • Under no circumstance use poultry seasoning which is like putting ketchup on caviar.

  • Taste it before you add the eggs, this way you will know if you need to adjust the seasonings.

  • It’s better if you make a day ahead, and let sit overnight and then bake the next day.

  • Whatever recipe you use for cornbread make sure it calls for bacon grease and buttermilk which is the goodness and love. Never use cornbread out of a box.

  • Now get out there and make your family proud, and remember that it’s your dressing which will make aunt Betty’s dry turkey taste like turkey, helping keep the family relations on track.