No Need to Hurry in Ouray

When one thinks of Colorado, many images come to mind:  the Rocky Mountains, outdoor activities for days, and snow in the Winter and lovely temperatures all Summer long.  One also thinks of the fabulous and famous places to visit like Aspen and Telluride with all their luxurious ways of life, celebrity residents, and (at times) ridiculously crowded streets.  I love those places, too, for many reasons, but I am also fond of some of the not so oversaturated towns in Colorado.  Places where I can close my eyes and hear my thoughts, and smell that sweet air. One such place is Ouray.

With a population of less than 1000 people, Ouray is located on the other side of the mountain from Telluride, and tends to be a more friendly and welcoming place than some of the more “glamorous” places in the State.  The vibe is chill, the climate is perfect and, not for nothing, it is often referred to as the “Switzerland of America.”  People who know about Ouray love Ouray and cannot wait to return.

Because it is a quiet and unassuming place, do not expect any opulent hotels with room service and bell hops.  You will probably be toting your own luggage upstairs in old, historic buildings with no elevators that probably have been around since the days of Doc Holliday and Big Nosed Kate.  While not always the most comfortable, you cannot beat if for charm.

Owing to this lack of modernity, I was immediately scouring Main Street for dinner options.  I may be charmed by the views and architecture, but I still like to eat well.  That is when the hubs and I stumbled upon Bon Ton.

Offering both indoor and outdoor seating, always opt for the outdoor seating.  We have eaten here several times, dined both inside and out, and there is no comparison.  You will be staring at breathtaking views of the mountains in which the town is nestled.  A bottle of Barolo to go with their old-school Italian cuisine (eating tasty Italian cuisine is like a wearing a little black dress – you just cannot go wrong) while taking in the views is almost too much goodness to handle.  The ricotta stuffed tortellini are always a winner.

As for lunch and other dining needs, just walk up and down Main Street (warning:  the town is on an incline, so it will be easy to get winded walking Main), and you will find charming cafes and casual eateries for all your dining needs, but Bon Ton is close to my heart, as is Ouray.

www.visitouray.com

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A Food Hangover Like None Other – Part 3 (Doing Dinner Right)

Once it reaches the hour for evening cocktails and dinner in The Big Easy I, admittedly, have probably already overindulged in some really rich food and libations several times over throughout the day.  I find this is easily cured, though, with a little afternoon nap to recharge my hunger and thirst batteries.

Our third, and final part, in this series on NOLA is going to close out with some of the finest places in the world to eat dinner.  New Orleans can go toe to toe with any other city in the world when it comes to dinner, as far as I am concerned, and I always seem to enjoy my evening pre-dinner drinks in NOLA just a little bit more than any place else.

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

The “Brennan” name is synonymous with New Orleans dining at this point, and the family has perfected the art of hospitality, tremendous service, and scrumptious food at all of its NOLA eateries.  However, it is also one of mine and my husband’s favorite place to pop in for pre-dinner cocktails is Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse on Iberville Street.  The bar is exactly our kind of vibe with its soft and inviting lighting, rich colors and sumptuous décor.  It gives off big “Rat Pack” vibes, and the service is always on point.

www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com

Patrick’s Bar Vin

This is a recently discovered find, which was recommended to me by some fellow NOLA devotees and foodies, and they could not have been more right in nailing what I like in a bar and lounge atmosphere.  Specifically, this is a wine bar with dozens of champagnes and wines from which to choose.  While it might sound a bit persnickety, it is a favorite place to unwind for many locals who do not have an ounce of pretension about them.  Located in the historic Hotel Mazarin on Bienville, it is in walking distance of all places in The French Quarter and worth a look and see.

http://www.patricksbarvin.com

Antoine’s

Like a mother saying she has a favorite child, I feel guilty saying I have a favorite place to eat dinner in New Orleans.  These places are all just so dang good, but Antoine’s holds that special place in my heart.  Being New Orleans’ oldest restaurant (opened since 1840), is a major part of the romance and allure of Antoine’s for me.  Still run by the ancestors of Antoine Alciatore, it is now five generations going strong.

Almost every sitting U.S. President has been through the doors of Antoine’s to indulge in its French-Creole cuisine, old world service, and birthplace of the Oysters Rockefeller.  When dining here, it feels as though I have been transported back in time.  Classic entrees include my go to, the Pompano Pontchartrain – a pompano filet topped with the freshest poached jumbo lump crabmeat and white wine sauce.  A little French onion soup to start, and all the French wine I can handle, makes me a happy, gluttonous little diner.
https://antoines.com

G.W. Fins

Relatively new compared some more “famous” NOLA eateries, G.W. Fins opened in 2001, and Chef Michael Nelson is at the helm.  An expert in fish, as it were, everything on his menu is FRESH.  The menu is printed daily, so the dishes offered on any particular day are of the highest quality.  

On a recent outing for dinner, I was struck by the incredible level of customer service here.  The staff was attentive, polite, and well versed on everything listed on the menu.  Everyone in our group ordered something different, and we could not stop passing around our plates to sample all of it.  Simply put, there is NO substitute for incredibly fresh seafood, and this place is doing it exceedingly well.  Everything from the lobster dumplings (swimming in rich lobster butter) to the parmesan crusted sheepshead was a reminder that these chefs know what they are doing at Fins.

If you are a shameless oenophile like me, it is worth noting G.W. Fins has been awarded the “Wine Spectator Award of Excellence” for the past twenty years and counting, so treat yourself to a glass (or bottle) if you make your way to Fins.

www.gwfins.com

Herbsaint

Located on St. Charles Avenue in the Business District, this place goes a little outside the typical New Orleans flavor box.  It mixes Southern cuisine with a dash of Italian fare on the side (think rich deviled eggs with homemade mayonnaise followed by a plate of housemade spaghetti with a fried, poached farm egg atop it).  No one ever said you are going to lose weight in New Orleans. Ever.

Definitely not stuffy, Herbsaint makes the most out of a small space, so expect to sit close to others, but it adds to the trendy ambience.

www.herbsaint.com

Doris Metropolitan

I will be the first to admit that when I first heard of Doris Metropolitan, I thought I am not going to New Orleans to eat at a steakhouse.  This place continued to come up in conversation, however, so the hubs and I made our way to Doris.  To say we were proven wrong would be an understatement.

Our experience started with exotic cocktails consisting of tequila in a glass lined with spicy sumac on the rim (fire!) and a plate of artisanal cheeses.   We moved on to tenderloins with a side of bone marrow, and I thought I had died and gone to steak heaven.  In short, the best damn steak I ever ate.  Period.  

The wine selection at Doris is so extensive one could get overwhelmed by all of the options but I, for one, appreciate getting lost in all of the regions and varietals from which to choose.  We settled on a Barbaresco and waddled out full and happy.

www.dorismetropolitan.com

Galatoire’s

I will say it.  I have the mindset of an old person.  Bourbon Street is just not my cup of tea, but one will inevitably end up on Bourbon street when visiting.  The place that will get me out on Bourbon Street in a heartbeat, mind you, is Galatoire’s.  Open since 1905, and located right smack in the middle of the chaos that is Bourbon Street, it is fine dining mixed with that old world family atmosphere of unpretentious tables and chairs.

Recently, in speaking with a judge whom I highly respect, and it is safe to say he is a man of exacting taste and refinement, he asked me where I liked to eat in New Orleans.  Galatoire’s was the first place of which I thought, and he said “best martinis in the world.”  For me, that was a very high seal of approval.

This is French Creole cuisine at its most decadent.  I feel two pounds heavier when I leave Galatoire’s, but I would not have it any other way.  I cannot get enough of the stuffed eggplant – grilled eggplant stuffed with fresh lump crabment, veggies, and thick ooey gooey meuniere sauce.  I cleanse my palate with a lovely French wine, and move on to a very NOLA kind of dessert:  a homemade bread pudding with banana praline sauce.  Does not get any better than that.

www.galatoires.com

To Live and (Fine) Dine in Mississippi

I live in Mississippi.  A State, which can boast of great writers, down-home cooking, and that “southern hospitality” thing of which you always hear is actually a REAL thing in these parts.  It’s not always easy for this foodie, though, to find restaurants with fine cuisine and, most importantly, a decent wine selection to accompany that cuisine. I’m sure I may be only one of three southerners who just can’t get excited about eating barbeque – stone me now!  It’s akin to trying to scratch a spot on your back and your itch being just out of reach.

Being the aspiring oenophile I am, I have a monthly subscription to the “Wine Enthusiast” magazine, and every year it ranks the “100 Best Wine Restaurants” in the United States.  Imagine my excitement when reviewing the list for 2019, and I saw a restaurant from Mississippi has FINALLY made the list!  I made a note of it (since I live 3 hours from Jackson, Mississippi) and vowed the next time I found myself in Jackson, I would eat at Caet Seafood Oysterette.  As luck would have it, 2 months ago, some friends and I met up in Jackson for a weekend, and I told them this just had to be one of the places we tried.  I got no complaints, so off we went on our dining adventure.

Caet offers both indoor and outdoor dining options, as well as seats at its Oyster Bar.  The inside of the restaurant was a little noisy for my liking, but it definitely had the vibe of a trendy wine bar, which just happens to offer up delicious fare from Chef Derek Emerson (no stranger to other successful eateries in Jackson).

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Their wine list did not let me down.  Besides providing an extensive selection, it takes the impressive further of step of offering actual drinkable wines by the glass (sadly, that is rare), half bottles, and full bottles.  Some of my companions prevailed upon me to select a bottle for us to share, which, admittedly, can sometimes cause no small amount of anxiety on my part.  Nobody wants to be the rube that picked out a bottle of wine for the table that tastes like cough syrup.  Fortunately, the 2006 Rioja I selected drew rave reviews from the table.  

Favorites at our table included the melt in your mouth Wood-Oven Baked Crab Fondue with warm crostini, the Jumbo Sea Scallops with sweet corn risotto and tomato parm broth and, my personal favorite, the Breadless Jumbo Lump Crab Cake soaking in tarragon lemon butter (beyond decadent).

This experience pleased my palate on all levels, and I’m heartened to see our great State is expanding its culinary options, and these establishments surviving during the days of our COVID pandemic makes it all the more reason to raise our glasses and say “Cheers.” I give it 5 out of 5 pours.

Dreaming of My Return to the “Land of Enchantment”

When I started dating my now-husband 11 years ago, he talked a lot about his annual pilgrimage out west for a few weeks on his motorcycle.  I was somewhat taken aback when he suggested one day I go with him on his next trip.  While it definitely sounded like an adventure, I was not entirely sure it would be my scene at all.  My close friends were even more opinionated about it, and the general consensus was “you’re going to hate it.  Period.”

My friends had a point.  I’m a stiletto-loving clotheshorse whose idea of relaxation is reading a good book while I sip tea from my vintage tea set – NOT wearing unflattering motorcycle boots, t-shirts, & slathering myself in sunscreen.  However, I was really into my then-boyfriend and did not want to disappoint him, so off we went.

I’d be lying if I said that the first trip did not have its challenges.  That first couple of days brought ungodly heat, sun poisoning which resulted in a left eye so swollen I could not see out of it for a few days, and I had never felt that exhausted in my entire life.  My husband knew I was suffering and was giving me worried looks, but I’m nothing if not stubborn & maintained a cheery façade.  I no longer had to pretend, though, when we got to New Mexico on the 3rd day, and it was stunningly gorgeous.  The landscape had entirely changed:  red rock, cacti, real mountains, and a lovely breeze.  I understood immediately why the State motto is “Land of enchantment.”

To this day, I still believe my husband took me to the town of Taos, New Mexico, on that first trip as a reward for me being a trooper and not complaining.  He knew I’d love it.  Taos is a funky, artsy town in the high desert – great dining, plenty of galleries and museums, and historic adobe buildings, which gives the town its own charm and character.  

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There are several dining establishments located in Taos I could discuss, but the standout for me time and again has been Lambert’s of Taos.  Lambert’s is fine dining, but it does not feel pretentious.  The staff is beyond accommodating, and there is no dress code.  Their menu is never the same when we go, so it is always a real treat to see what is on the seasonal menu, or what the specials are that particular day – last time, their dinner specials included an offering of kangaroo fillet.  I chose not to sample the marsupial, but I appreciated the option nonetheless.

I have eaten many wonderful dinners at Lambert’s (no bad meals there), including a mouth-watering Caesar salad followed by a southern fried Cornish game hen with collard greens, and a bison ribeye with arugula salad, just to name a few things.  And the wine never disappoints me.

It deserves 5 out of 5 pours. 

That first trip out west was a learning experience, to be sure, but I knew I’d go back again after that first trip, & my love of it all started in New Mexico.  After 11 years together, 8 years of marriage, it is not even a question anymore of whether the hubs and I are heading west on the motorcycle at the end of the Summer but, rather, WHEN are we heading west?  It’s a good life, kids….

A Toast to Your Grown-Up Self

 
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Sparkling wine began with French monks almost 500 years ago, but it was a certain monk named Dom Perignon who is given credit for creating champagne itself.  There are all kinds of sparkling wine, but the French own the credit for “champagne.”  

That being said, I have a confession to make.  I absolutely hated being a child – everything about it.  Being a grown-up seemed like the best thing in the world.  And you know what? It totally is. And, for me anyway, there is nothing more grown up than drinking champagne.  Think Deborah Kerr and Cary Grant in “An Affair to Remember” aboard that cruise ship drinking champagne together.  

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I mean, it just announces to the room “I’m an adult who’s ready to celebrate.”  Although even us grown-ups sometimes like to make our champagne cocktails a little ducky when hanging at the Peabody. 

This time of year more than any other time of year is primetime for drinking champagne.  Does not matter if you are mixing it with orange juice for a little mimosa for breakfast with friends or family, or drinking it straight up when ringing in the New Year with your special someone.   Personally, I like to drink champagne on a slow Tuesday sometimes. Is that odd? Who cares? I’m a grown up and do what I want.

In my household we stick to only French labels.  Moet & Chandon is my favorite, while the hubs is partial to Veuve Cliquot.  Both have been around for a few hundred years, and enjoyed by nobility, so you will not go wrong with either of these if you’re treating yourself, or if you are not used to drinking champagne.  Many are fond of the traditional Dom Perignon as well if you want to go old school. All of these are good straight up, with a little fruit, other liquors such as cognac, etc.

So, over this holiday season, step outside your comfort zone when ordering a cocktail & see what types of champagne specialties are on the menu and try one.  And if you lack confidence on what type of drink to order simply pull a Deborah Kerr and say “champagne cocktail please.” God, she was such a grown up…