The King of Cakes: Stuffed Brioche

There are rules, apparently, related to when and how a person is supposed to make and enjoy a King Cake. 

The King Cake traditionally should be consumed between Epiphany and Fat Tuesday, though they go on sale much earlier and continue to be sold after. Be careful when eating to not break a tooth on the plastic baby typically hidden somewhere in the dough. And if you do find the baby in your piece of cake, you are required to buy or bake the next one.

The King Cake is essentially a delicious, stuffed brioche that can be enjoyed any time, even during Lent!

These traditions were strange ideas to me as a Northern transplant to Oxford, Mississippi, in 1988. I was a freshman at Ole Miss, and other than a couple of Georgia drive-throughs on the way to Florida vacations, The South was a subject upon which I was very dim. 

But I had multiple roommates over the years, some still very close friends, who baptized me in Southern traditions, manners, dress, and, to my delight, Southern food. 

I had much to learn. I am from a family who are no slouches in the cooking department. But when your curiosities begin to develop past the chicken nuggets kids’ meal and Mom’s meatloaf, and suddenly the authentic versions of foods you’ve been eating your whole life appear both in abundance and in their most perfect form, that’s when you begin to hear the first murmurs from your true “foodie” palate. 

It was my dear friend Kayla who built the bridge to where I stand now. She went home to Pearl for a birthday weekend and came back with it: my very first King Cake. I had no idea what King Cake was. I’d heard of Mardi Gras - who hadn’t? - but other than actual floats, parades, krewes, and copious amounts of beads, I hadn’t realized there was a specific menu that went with the festivities.

Or that there was a cake. You can’t go wrong when there’s cake, right? 

It was in my recent adult years that I researched the significance of King Cake. That’s when I found out they’ve dedicated a whole season to this cake! So, the cake is traditionally first served on Twelfth Night, January 6th, to commemorate when the Three Kings arrived in Bethlehem to greet Baby Jesus. Then you get 40 days to indulge.

Only for 40 days? Please. Rules are made to be broken. Make this cake anytime you want.

There are as many King Cake varieties as there are King Cake bakers. I knew from the cake Kayla brought back from Pearl that a traditional cake had a filling – cream cheese, cinnamon. I have had more stylized versions with chocolate, but that seems to be a mixing of metaphors. 

Buttery brioche dough works perfectly. Something that eggy and buttery has no substitution. It’s an almost cheesecake-y filling ribboned with cinnamon. Just sweet enough, like the First-Class travel section version of a cheese Danish. Sometimes braided in the Brioche tradition, sometimes an oval, or even a horseshoe; good luck on top of good luck bestowed upon the finder of the beloved Baby. It’s topped with colored sugar - green for faith, gold for richness and purple for royalty. The sanding sugars’ grit play perfectly off the smoothness of the cheese filling. Maybe some beads alongside as a decoration.

So, let’s break the rules. I adapted this recipe from the Very Best Brioche recipe from The Suburban Soap Box. Can’t find a plastic baby this late in the season? Worry not. Bake. Eat. Enjoy.

King Cake on a pedestal waiting to be eaten!

Stuffed Brioche/King Cake

Makes 2 King Cakes

Cake Ingredients
1/3 cup warm water about 110 degrees
2 1/4 tsp active dry yeast (not rapid rise)
2 1/3 cups super fine pastry flour or cake flour
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 tsp kosher salt
6 large eggs
8 oz. unsalted butter cut into 1-inch cubes, room temperature

Filling Ingredients 

16 oz. cream cheese, room temperature
1 cup white sugar
2 tsp vanilla
2 tsp cinnamon
Egg wash: 2 whole large eggs, beaten with 2 TB cold water
2 miniature plastic babies (optional, available in the Baby Shower section of hobby stores)

Glaze Ingredients

1 1/2 to 3 cups powdered sugar
Up to 1/4 cup whole milk
2 tsp vanilla (optional)
Sanding sugar in dark green, dark purple and gold

Instructions

1. Whisk the water and yeast in a small bowl. Let stand for 10 minutes until completely dissolved. Set aside.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, sift together the pastry flour, all-purpose flour, sugar and salt. Turn the mixer on low and add the eggs to the bowl 1 at a time beating well after each addition. Slowly add the yeast mixture and continue beating at low speed for 5 minutes. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Turn the mixer on low and beat for an additional 5 minutes.

3. Add the butter cubes 1/3 at a time, beating for about 1 minute after each addition. Once the butter has been added, beat for 10 more minutes until the dough is smooth.

4. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough rest in a warm place until doubled in size, approximately 3 hours.

5. Turn the dough out on a well-floured surface and gently knead out the air bubbles. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. (This is important. It allows your butter to restabilize after the rise.)

6. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Have about 1 cup of flour ready in case the dough decides to be a diva and needs extra attention. If necessary, knead in TINY amounts of additional flour until the dough is smooth and compliant. When ready, divide the dough in half with a sharp knife or a bench scraper.

7. Roll each piece of dough into a 20 x 8-inch rectangle. Flour lightly as you don't want to incorporate too much more flour into the dough, especially if you had to add in additional flour in Step 6. 

8. Spread filling all over the rectangles, leaving 1/4-inch border around edges of dough. Place the baby wherever you'd like (optional and at your own risk). Starting at the long edge, roll the dough tightly toward you, like a cinnamon roll. Roll the seam to the bottom and press down lightly to seal the edge. Transfer each roll to a parchment-lined 18x13-inch rimmed sheet pan. Carefully bring the ends around together into a circle or an oval and seal the open edges together with your fingers.* 

9. Allow the dough to rise, covered, in a warm place until doubled in size, approximately 2 hours. You can do this in an oven on the "Keep Warm" setting.  Keep an eye on the temp, it shouldn't be more than 100-125 degrees. Do not be tempted to go warmer to raise the dough faster - it will over-rise and lose texture and flavor. Adjust the temp as necessary keeping the dough as draft free as possible. If you have aa Proofing Oven, today’s the day to use it.    

10. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Egg wash the top and sides of the rolls. This creates the deep beautiful golden color, and the SHINE Brioche is known for. Bake 30-35 minutes, until golden brown and 190°F in center of ring. (You can't test with a toothpick because of the filling.) Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 2-3 minutes. Take the cakes off the parchment (reserve for later) and transfer to cooling rack until completely cooled. Prepare the glaze and sanding sugars. You want the glaze to be firm and semi-set so it doesn't run off the cake, and you want the sanding sugars open and in small dishes, ready to apply.

11. Slide the cakes from the cooling rack onto cake boards. Put the cake boards and cakes on top of the cooling rack and place the parchment underneath to catch drips. Working in sections, drizzle glaze over one quarter of each cake, and immediately decorate with sanding sugars. Continue until all four quarters are decorated. Allow the cakes to set. 

Serve whenever you’re ready! Room temp is delicious, warm is delicious-er! Take more pictures now that it’s finished. Send to friends. Be proud. You MADE a Brioche King Cake. Now you should get ready for the friends who tell you they are on the way over. Have you had Brioche stuffed French Toast? That’s a song for another time, but I will surely sing it for you if you'd like. You did good. Be proud of yourself. Enjoy your creation.

*Alternatively, dollop the filling down the middle of the rectangle and gently fold the remaining dough around the filling. Or, slice the rectangle into three strips, dollop filling down the center of each strip, fold the dough over the filling and seal the edges well; pinch the ends of the three rolls and braid, bringing ends together to make a small circle. Pinch the dough ends together to create a continuous braid.

How to Survive a Hot Sauce Challenge

One of my favorite things about food is that it can always surprise you. Sure, if you want cold ham sandwiches at every meal, you can choose that. You can choose to never let food surprise you. But if you really love food, it offers the endless possibility to taste, to experience, to learn. And… to be challenged.

Enter one of my favorite food activities: the hot sauce challenge. If you’ve never seen the YouTube show Hot Ones (“the show with hot questions, and even hotter wings”), you should correct that unfortunate oversight. Maybe start with fan favorite guests Gordon Ramsay and Paul Rudd. 

The premise: host, Sean Evans, expertly interviews celebrity guests as they trudge through a grueling course of ten progressively hotter chicken wings (or veggie nuggets or cauliflower if they prefer). Sean’s well-researched questions also increase in intensity, mirroring the rising Scoville units of the hot sauces. In the current lineup for their 17th season, the first sauce comes in at 1800 units, and the tenth is over 2 million. You can order the full set (as well as individual bottles) here to do the challenge yourself. I’ve done it several times, with different groups of people, and it’s always fun, even when it hurts a little.

To survive it, I recommend stocking up on cooling accoutrements to tame the heat, including dairy-based, starchy, veggie and sweet options:

• Ranch and Blue Cheese Dressing

• Milk 

• Ice Cream (milkshakes, smoothies and Dole Whips are nice too)

• Bread, Rice, Crackers or French Fries

• Crunchy and Creamy Veggies (carrots, celery and avocado)

• Sweet Fruit (tart is less helpful, since sugar is what will do battle against those high-Scoville sauces)

Pickle-Brined Spicy Chicken Wings

Serves 4 (10 wings each, plus a few extra)

Ingredients

2 cups milk
1/2 cup juice from bread and butter pickles or dill pickles 
4 lbs chicken wings (a mix of flats and drums)
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 to 4 quarts peanut or canola oil
10 hot sauces, ranging in spiciness from mild to downright painful

Directions

Combine milk and pickle juice (if using dill pickle juice, add 1 TB granulated or brown sugar to balance the acidity) in 13x9-inch baking dish. Add wings, turn to coat, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least two hours and up to eight, turning wings at least once.

Place flour in pie plate or shallow dish. Heat oil to 375°F in deep fryer or large Dutch oven. Thoroughly drain wings in large colander, then dredge wings one at a time in the flour, being careful to coat evenly. Fry chicken in batches, 10 to 15 minutes per batch, until cooked through (at least 165°F in center of thickest part of the wing). Drain wings on paper towels, then either toss in desired hot sauce or serve with the sauce for dipping.

To keep warm, place cooked wings on a rack over a rimmed sheet pan in a 200° oven for up to an hour.

Good luck, and remember the most important key to survival: wash your hands before touching your eyes, nose or privates! 

A Food Hangover Like None Other – Part 2 (Time for Lunch, Y’all)

Lunch in New Orleans is one of the greatest of all leisure activities. It’s vacation. It’s relatively early and still a new day. And it’s unlike the usual daily lunch hour for most of us which is always a bit rushed and entails a lot of glancing at watches. 

When eating lunch in New Orleans, I easily leave that all behind and relax. No emails. No phone calls. No rushing back to the office or, worse, back to the courthouse to argue all afternoon.  

And unless you’ve consumed the hair of the dog for or with your breakfast, you’re sober again and ready to get out and experience this unique American city. So, adopt an “I’ve-got-nothing-but-time” attitude and make your lunch last.

Our second part in this series on New Orleans touches on both mine and some of my collaborators’ favorite eateries to lunch. And maybe drink a little, too.  

The Market Cafe – Located on Decatur Street, this establishment is rife with atmosphere and is in one of the oldest buildings in the French Market.  It serves up traditional creole dishes.  I discovered this place only recently thanks to my brother and sister-in-law, and it was utterly delightful.  Our lunch included gumbo, red beans and rice, and jambalaya with sausage and fresh bell peppers – all the fan favorites! A little bonus to the experience is that there is always a jazz combo playing somewhere near your table.

Criollo – The Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street is one of my favorite places to stay in New Orleans, if not my favorite.  Historically significant with a breathtakingly beautiful interior, it screams old New Orleans opulence the second you enter. While many people are very familiar with the famed Carousel Bar in the hotel, most may not be aware there is a wonderful restaurant beside the bar. Criollo boasts seasonal menus, which always entail creative creole and seafood dishes.  

My husband and I entered Criollo kind of unassumingly one day not expecting anything besides a hotel restaurant to grab some lunch; it quickly became a relaxing, delicious lunch of fresh crab cakes, gumbo, and some perfectly seasoned trout amandine.  I am not ashamed to say a cold bottle of pinot grigio disappeared quickly during that outing.  

Perhaps the greatest compliment I can give Criollo is that a very close, dear friend of mine lives and works in New Orleans, and every time I visit I call her to come eat lunch with me.  We have frequently met up at Criollo, and she loves it.  A local’s tip of the hat is always a good endorsement.

Royal House – My most recent trip to New Orleans was over the holidays to attend the Sugar Bowl to watch the Ole Miss Rebels play.  Many of mine and my husband’s like-minded friends decided to make a week out of it, and do up NOLA right.  We certainly did just that.  Unfortunately, our eating and drinking forays that week were more successful than my beloved Rebels’ game outcome, but I digress.

Many of our good friends kept flocking to Royal House on Royal Street.  A fresh oyster bar that serves up heaping seafood platters, jambalaya, and a host of other tasty Cajun delights, there is a consensus this place is all about the atmosphere and great customer service.  There is always a line waiting here, but it seems to be worth it.

Turkey & The Wolf – This groovy sandwich shop was Bon Appetit’s #1 New Restaurant in 2017 besting all new restaurants across America. And with good reason. Creative, playful sandwiches prepared perfectly. It’s located uptown in the Irish Channel so plan to stay in the area around Magazine Street after you eat for some fun shopping. A few bites into the collard green melt with cherry pepper dressing, and you understand why so many folks make the trek from the Quarter to eat here. The fried bologna sandwich is just fantastic, especially paired with a wedge salad with bacon and blue cheese. And they’ve got booze!  

Central Grocery & Deli – You can’t escape the experience of a muffuletta. Piles of Italian meats and a briny olive salad make this one of New Orleans’ most well-known sandwiches, running neck-and-neck with the po’ boy. Central is currently closed for renovations after it suffered damage during Hurricane Ida, but they are offering their sandwiches at Zuppardo’s up in Metairie, and their online store can ship still ship sandwiches or olive salad. Many other New Orleans restaurants serve muffulettas but check to see if Central has re-opened. That sandwich is one-of-a-kind.

Shrimp Creole’s Devilish Brother: Fra Diavolo

I got a gumbo spoon for Christmas and wanted to give it an inaugural stir, so I pulled my trusted source for Louisiana fare: my family cookbook.

I turned to the section with the gumbo recipes and went down a rabbit hole when I noticed a recipe from a cousin for shrimp fra diavolo. Though it’s a general Italian-American dish – the name translates as the “Devil’s brother” – it includes nice heat and a seafood feature that makes it a dish popular in New Orleans restaurants.

So, here’s a fascinating read: pull some gumbo recipes, then shrimp etouffee, then on to shrimp creole, then fra diavolo, and finish with arrabbiata (the latter translating as “angry” in Italian).

From the soothing and delightful gumbo over rice on one end to pasta dish names that translate as the “Devil’s brother” and “angry” on the other, you get a nice progression from comfort food to stimulating dishes that have a nice, spicy kick.

It’s an interesting spectrum with gumbo as a purely roux-based dish to arrabbiata with a purely tomato gravy-based dish, with the ingredients from the five dishes generally meeting in the middle at shrimp creole. Of course there are vegetable and flavor changes, as well, but you can easily see the overlap.

I decided that, instead of gumbo, I would give the fiery shrimp fra diavolo recipe a try. I looked at more recipes online and found their common elements – lots of garlic, white wine, basil, and red pepper. Sometimes onion. Sometimes Parmesan.

I leaned heavily on Ina Garten’s version. She opts for ready-made Rao’s prepared arrabbiata for a quicker meal with great flavor, and since Rao’s is available at Wally World, I was on board with that. And since I couldn’t find any fresh basil, I opted for prepared pesto.

The result is a beautiful pasta dish with strong flavors. And I will have to break in that new gumbo spoon another day.

Enjoy …

Shrimp Fra Diavolo

Appx. 6 - 8 servings

3 TB olive oil
1 medium sweet onion, diced
2 TB garlic, minced
1 – 2 tsp red pepper flakes (see note about heat)
1/2 cup white wine
24 oz. Rao’s arrabbiata or 3 cups homemade spicy marinara
3 TB basil pesto
16 oz. linguine
1 – 1 ½ pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined
Parmesan, shaved 

Directions 

1. Put heavily-salted pasta water on to boil.

2. Heat olive oil in a saucepan on medium/high heat. Add onion and sauté for about 5 minutes until it’s soft. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté for an additional 2 minutes stirring constantly and making sure the garlic doesn’t burn.

3. Add white wine and reduce heat. Simmer for about 3 minutes until wine reduces by about half.

4. Get your linguine boiling in your pasta pot. It will probably take 10 or so minutes.

5. Add 3 cups of arrabbiata and basil pesto to your saucepan and bring to a simmer. Salt to taste. Add a little more wine and/or a little more pesto, to taste.

6. When the pasta still has about 5 minutes to go, add your shrimp to your tomato sauce making sure all the shrimp are submerged. If the tomato sauce is not bubbling, bring the heat back up.

7. Reserve about a half cup of pasta water. Drain your pasta and return to the pasta pot.

8. Make sure that your shrimp are pink and cooked through and pour sauce into pasta pot and mix well with the linguine. If the sauce needs thinning, add pasta water little by little and continue to stir. Make sure all pasta is coated.

9. Top with Parmesan and serve with Italian bread and a nice salad.

A note about the heat: 1 tsp of red pepper flakes is subjectively mild to me. Go for 2 tsp if you want to make sure you get some nice heat. My cousin adds up to 3 TB, but I'm not sure she has any taste buds left. 

A Food Hangover Like None Other – Part 1 (Breakfast & Brunch)

It has been at the fore of my mind for quite some time to write about some of my favorite places to dine in New Orleans, a truly wonderful American city with a flavor and culture all its own.  I have held back because it is a daunting task.  I know I am going to exclude places, which may be some of your personal favorites, because there are just too many places from which to choose.  One could stay in NOLA for weeks and still miss out on some phenomenal eats.

I’ve joined my husband on countless numbers of trips over the years, and I always return home happy and full.  We call it the “food hangover.”  Yes, such a thing is real, my friends.  I am usually doubling my treadmill time for several weeks after one of our excursions to the Big Easy.  No complaints, though.  It. Is. Always. Worth. It. 

Our first part in this series on NOLA is going to touch on both mine and some of my collaborators’ favorite breakfast and brunch establishments.  If you are not starting your day out in NOLA with heavy food (and a Mimosa or Bloody Mary in hand), I dare say you are not doing it right.

Cajun and Creole classics at The Court of Two Sisters

The Court of Two Sisters – Located in the heart of the French Quarter, there is not a more New Orleans brunch experience than this jazz brunch, which has a buffet chocked full of Cajun and Creole classics.  Enjoy the incredible cuisine (I like to get some of EVERYTHING on my plate) and music, all while dining al fresco in its famous courtyard.  A cold, crisp white wine always helps get the party started.

Café Beignet – While I know Café Du Monde is the “famous” place to go for beignets and café au laits, Café Beignet has several locations all over the Quarter, and it makes a beignet just as pillowy, sugary, and delicious as Du Monde, but without the waiting and fighting over tables.  Of course, I’ll still frequent Du Monde from time to time for the NOLA ambience, but it is really nice to dispatch the hubs to Café Beignet to bring me some coffee and a bag of powdery goodness to enjoy in the hotel bed.

Commander’s Palace – Ladies, don your finery, and put on your sport coats, gentlemen.  Located in the city’s famed Garden District, this is about as fancy as one gets for brunch, and it is nothing short of DECADENT.  The Jazz Brunch includes mimosas poured with carefree abandon, fresh seafood dishes offerings, and their world famous Turtle Soup au Sherry (finished tableside).  If you even think of skipping dessert at Commander’s, please remember all of those ladies on the Titanic who waived away the dessert cart the night the ship went down.  That is just how phenomenal their creole bread pudding soufflé and pecan pie a la mode are.  You will thank me later.

The “Luke Burger” with homemade house fries and a fresh squeezed mimosa at Luke

Luke – This trendy little place was a revelation to us.  A fellow “foodie” told us to check it out on a trip to NOLA few years ago, and it did not disappoint.  Located on St. Charles, brunch has a little something for whatever your mood – traditional breakfast, a raw oyster bar and, of course, several creole classics like shrimp & grits.  Personally, I’m a big fan of the “Luke Burger,” which comes with Allan Benton’s bacon, Emmanthaler cheese, and the homemade house fries are to die for.  Washing all that divine greasiness with a fresh squeezed mimosa always takes me to my happy place.  If you are in the mood for a signature drink, the French 75 at Luke will please your palate every time.

A Few of Our Favorite Things

As 2021 draws to a close, we here at Grab The Corkscrew are looking back over the year and counting our blessings. 

We are certainly thankful for our group of writers, our blog turning two last month, and all of the wonderful readers! 

In the spirit of giving, we present to you some of our favorite things and pray that 2022 brings us all a renewed enthusiasm for cooking, dining, and sharing, and for love, the core of it all.

Cheers … 

Wine & Spirits

Franco Serra Barolo – It is no secret I love wine (red, white, rose, you name it!), but I have definitely refined my tastes over the years, and dry Italian reds are definitely some of my favorites.  Our wine rack is always stacked with several bottles of this Barolo.  Reasonably priced at around $35 per bottle, it will not break the bank and yet is a quality full-bodied red, which pairs excellently with meats and cheeses. (Amanda)

Campo Viejo Rioja - Buddy and I found this inexpensive Spanish red wine that we love. It’s fruity and perfectly smooth, but not sweet. Prices range from $10 - $20. If you try any of the older reserves, let it breathe for just a few minutes before pouring. If you cannot find the Campo Viejo, look for any Spanish red that is made with a tempranillo grape (key ingredient), in particular those from the Rioja region, though the blends are delicious, too. (Cam)

Broadbent Vinho Verde - I always keep an extra bottle of this light, refreshing white in my refrigerator. This Portuguese table wine is a blend of green grapes that’s perfectly spritzy and dry at the same time. At around $10, it’s the perfect price point for serving to friends over brunch or a fish dinner. I jokingly call this my “mama wine.” Because of its low alcohol content, you can enjoy a few glasses without feeling worse for the wear. (Mary Margaret)

Segura Viudas Brut Heredad Reserva Cava - This is the ultimate “bring a bottle of wine” choice for the holidays. If you haven’t seen this thing … you have to check it out. It’s a standard 750mL bottle of Spanish sparkling, but the actual bottle is decidedly fat, with an embossed metal base that’s super sexy and looks like it costs way more than $21. It also just happens to taste great, too! (Maggie)

Moet and Chandon Champagne – I confess.  I’m fancy.  Cannot deny it.  There is always something sparkly and chilling in our refrigerator (no matter the time of year), and 9 times out of 10 it is going to include a bottle of this champagne.  Everyone should have a good bottle of champagne on hand; for special occasions, if nothing else. Sometimes after an especially long day, though, it is nice to pop a cork on this fruity (and much too easy going down) bubbly spirit. (Amanda)

Cooking & Food

Better Than Bouillon bases - I grew up cooking with those cute, square cubes of bouillon for soups, stews and the like, but the Better Than Bouillon bases are far and above a better solution for home cooks who like to tweak recipes. These bases are a paste, allowing you to dictate the flavor intensity as you see fit. The brand offers a number of flavor profiles (some Vegan, too) but I always keep beef, chicken and vegetable on hand. (Mary Margaret)

Langres Super Stinky Cheese - I’m officially obsessed with this cheese from Champagne. It’s so stinky I’m required to warn my husband before I open it. No one else in my house wants to share it with me, and I am so fine with that. Traditionally served with Champagne (another classic example of that whole what-grows-together-goes-together adage), Langres is delightful on a thin wafer cracker or toasted baguette, with a couple of Picholine olives to help cut through the intense, luscious creaminess. Oh, and it’s beautiful too. (Maggie) 

Yucatan Guacamole in a squeeze bottle - We keep this in the fridge to use as a condiment on sandwiches and as an addition to salads/dressings. You can find it in the refrigerator section at Wal-Mart next to the sour cream. Because it’s a squeeze bottle, you can squirt some out without air getting to the rest and turning it brown. The avocado content makes it pretty healthy and can raise HDL levels. And it’s delicious. (Cam)

McCormick Gourmet Organic Za'atar Seasoning - My favorite go-to ingredient in my home kitchen these days: The Lawry`s of the Middle East. This interesting little spice blend has earthy notes of thyme, oregano, and sumac. Sumac has a subtle, lemony flavor that brightens this savory spice mix. It’s great for use on roasted turkey, chicken, or fresh vegetables. Mix it with a healthy dose of kosher salt and cracked black pepper, and you have a bold steak rub. Or add into your favorite vinaigrette for salads. Readily available on any spice aisle of any grocery. (Dixie)

Frontera Green Chili Enchilada Sauce - This mild enchilada sauce is my favorite pantry ingredient for stretching leftovers. I can’t stand to waste good protein, but I’m usually tired of it after two meals. With this enchilada sauce, I simply chop any leftover pork/chicken/beef and fold it into a tortilla with cheese, black olives, red onion, and whatever else is in the fridge that needs to be eaten. This 8 oz. package works perfectly for 6-8 enchiladas and freezes beautifully. (Mary Margaret)

Lucini Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Very rarely do I cook with anything except extra virgin olive oil.  It is more expensive than regular olive oil, but it is much healthier for you and does not leave food heavy and oily tasting.  This brand is about $20 per bottle, and I defer to it because it is available in most supermarkets no matter where you live.  Made 100% from Italian olives, it automatically elevates most things I cook. (Amanda)

La Costena Diced Chipotle Peppers - Keep a jar in the fridge to add a little heat and smokiness to any soup or sauce. Add to your heat preference, but about a teaspoon per cup of liquid will perk your tastebuds up. (Cam)

French’s Crispy Jalapeños - Everyone knows about French’s Crispy Fried Onions, but there is a jalapeños version that makes a fantastic topping for your casseroles, soups, chili, and salads. Add them to a charcuterie board, and your guests will love the little spicy accent. The heat is perfect. The crunch is great. (Cam)

Philadelphia Cream Cheese – Yes, this is a very Basic B*#%! item, but it is never NOT in my refrigerator. Having guests over last minute? Throwing a holiday party? Going someplace and need to bring a dish? I defy you not to find hundreds of easy recipes, which use this ingredient, and, let me tell you if there are people in the world who do not like cream cheese I have not met them yet. If I did, I am not entirely sure we could be friends. The loveliest thing about cream cheese, though, is that it almost stands on its own as a dish. Quite often, appetizers requiring this ingredient do not require a dozen other items as well, and it helps take the stress out of cooking.  Am I right, or am I right? (Amanda) 

Bella Sun Luci Sundried Tomatoes - Wal-Mart sells a julienne cut that’s not packed in oil, and they are fantastic in sauces and salads. The flavor is so concentrated, and the texture so meaty, I keep a bag in my pantry at all times. (Cam)

Tools

Half Sheet Pans - The workhorse of my kitchen, half sheet pans are great for baking cookies, making nachos, cooking off a whole pound of bacon, roasting vegetables, and more. Big enough to fit a small spatchcocked turkey, the half sheet size is perfect for home cooks, but also a standard size for when you want to steal recipes from your favorite restaurant which uses whole sheet pans. You just halve the recipe and you’re in business. And you can get 2 of these guys for $12 at Sam’s Club, so you won’t feel bad about putting them through the wringer. Sam’s also sells the quarter-sized sheet pans for smaller tasks so I have a bunch of those as well. (Maggie)

Pre-Cut Parchment Paper Sheets - To keep those half sheet pans looking great longer but more importantly, to be able to rinse them instead of scrub them, find a place to keep some of these pre-cut parchment sheets. They’re 16 x 12 inches, meaning they fit nicely in those 18 x 13-inch half sheet pans. And with the precut sheets, of course, you don’t have to cut them, but also, they don’t roll up on you like cut parchment from a roll does. I have a dedicated drawer in my kitchen that perfectly fits a 1000-sheet box that I buy every couple of years from a restaurant supply store, but for a smaller level of commitment, here’s a 200-sheet pack from Amazon that comes in at a reasonable $14. (Maggie)

Plastic Quart Containers - Ubiquitous in restaurant kitchens, these players should have their own dedicated place in your home too. They’re dishwasher safe, microwave safe, freezer safe, and reusable. And the best thing about these is they come in quart, pint, and cup sizes, but each size uses the same size lid. They stack easily and are easier to dry and store than their Ziploc or Glad counterparts. (Maggie)

De'Longhi Livenza Deep Fryer with Easy Clean System - I just purchased my second deep fryer. After 10 years, the handle for my original Fry Daddy broke, and I couldn’t find a replacement. I decided to upgrade to this baby and I’m very happy with the results. It holds more oil than my last one (it says it holds 1 gallon but it actually holds slightly more) and it has a little spigot that lets you drain off the oil instead of pouring it out of the top. I usually drain off cooled oil into the container it came from, so the spigot makes swift work of that, without the need for a funnel. Plus, almost all of it fits in the dishwasher. It’s the best. If you don’t ever fry, you probably don’t need a countertop deep fryer. On the other hand, if you had your own, you might end up frying a lot more. Also, perhaps off-topic: let’s talk about air fryers. If you’re thinking an air fryer is in any way similar to a deep fryer, get ready for school: an air fryer is a tiny countertop convection oven. It is excellent for heating and re-crisping pre-cooked frozen food (pizza rolls, chicken nuggets, tater tots) and it reheats many leftovers very well, but it will not provide you with yummy fresh Pommes Frites or old-fashioned fried chicken. You can’t use it for things that are battered, like tempura. And fat provides flavor. There I said it. Sorry to proselytize for regularly bathing your food in artery-clogging peanut oil, but holy crap does it make it delicious! (Maggie)

The Ninja Foodi - We have a rule about not bringing new items into the house and kitchen unless something goes out the door at the same time, so I have resisted the Instapot and Ninja cooking trends over the last few years. Well, I got married and a dear friend gave us a Ninja Foodi as a wedding present. It has changed so much about cooking for me. The ability to air fry and pressure cook easily has opened my eyes to a whole new world. I will admit that, at first, I was intimidated by the number of functions. It evenly sautes, slow cooks, pressure cooks, air fries, broils, steams, and much more. Favorite dishes: Morning Star black bean burgers, carnitas, HamBeens soup, and any dried bean dishes. I’ll never go back. (Cam)

Techniques

Homemade Garlic Oil - Something that has been a handy-dandy thing for me, and that I’ve done for the last 30-something years, is to keep a small pan on the stove, preferably a pretty one, full of garlic oil. Simmer fresh, peeled garlic in your favorite oil until it’s soft. Both the roasted garlic and the oil have tons of different uses. Replenish as needed; no need to refrigerate. (Trish) 

Homegrown Dried Sage - ‘Tis the Season! During the holidays there are a few things I MUST have! I want it to “smell” like Christmas! I want it to “look” like Christmas. And above all, I need it to “taste” like Christmas. Once I have all of those things in place, it begins to “feel” like Christmas! The #1 item for me is homegrown dried sage. My husband grows sage in the summer in our tiny garden. We dry tons of it and put them in pretty jars for family and friends. It’s a must-have for me as I prepare the Christmas Dressing. The amazing thing about sage is the aroma will fill the house and is a perfect pairing with Christmas music! (Sylvia)

A Spoonful of Germany in Tupelo

Many years ago when my husband and I began dating we frequently met up Friday night at the end of a long hard week for dinner and drinks.  It is a tradition we keep up to this day.  One of our favorite places at that time employed a friendly and feisty German lady named Margarete.  She was a server about whom we knew very little personally, but she always amused us with very wry sense of humor.

As time went by we learned more and more about Margarete’s background, her migrating to Mississippi from Germany many moons ago, as well as her aspirations for opening her own bakery right here in Tupelo, Mississippi.  Apparently, all that time Margarete was a talented baker and cook, and we had no idea.  Before we knew it, Simply Sweet By Margarete  opened up right here in downtown Tupelo, and was gangbusters from the day she opened the doors.  I married a meat and potatoes kind of man, but even his fussy self loves this café and bakery.

Margarete’s unassuming little haunt offers lunch options that always satisfy.  I’m partial to her salad specials such as the trio of homemade potato salad, chicken salad, and fresh greens.  If you are looking for something heartier there are a range of sandwich options and soups made daily.  Of course, it would not be a German café without some sauerkraut and bratwurst on the menu, which it does.  My favorite lunch days at Simply Sweet are when there is a lunch special, which is distinctly German and delicious.  Recently, one such special of which I could not get enough was the Schnitzel with mushrooms and gravy spread over rotini pasta, and a side boiled purple cabbage.  Scrumptious.  

What really differentiates Margarete’s little piece of heaven from other soup and sandwich places is THE BREAD.  All of the sandwiches are made with Margarete’s homemade breads, and all soups and salads come with slices of her to- die-for sourdough.  If that is not enough for you, there are cakes, pies, and cookies made in house, which are almost impossible to resist (I speak from plenty of experience).  

Besides excellent German cuisine and desserts, you will almost always see Margarete herself walking around her bakery and eatery greeting every patron and thanking everyone for patronizing her business.  She is truly grateful Tupelo has rallied around her and her business and we all, in turn, cannot get enough.  When the holidays approach, I always place an order for several of her desserts.  My only agonizing decision is WHICH desserts.  

I have often spoken of my pet peeve of people hollering at me to “eat local!” I appreciate the sentiment but, to be honest, sometimes “local” places just are not automatically good.  However, you will not be disappointed if you patronize our “local” German lady’s das restaurant.

Late Night Crustless Quiche

With the holidays upon us, it’s always good to have a simple breakfast dish on hand to help soak up whatever excess you may have indulged the night before. This recipe is from the kitchen of our family friend, Sue Perret, a glamourous South Louisiana Cajun who loved to entertain. The Perrets had six children, a billiards room, and an indoor pool, which, as you can imagine, was the perfect combination for a party. 

For many years, we would travel to Demopolis, Alabama, to visit the Perrets for Christmas on the River, a magical, hometown holiday festival featuring a boat parade on the Tombigbee River. The weekend was full of activities, with the adults starting the day with Bloody Marys and wrapping it up with Hot Buttered Rum. The party would wind down when Dr. Earl, Sue’s husband, read to the children Cajun Night Before Christmas in an accent so thick that I never really understood what he was saying, but was captivated nonetheless. 

I have many of Sue’s recipes and they are all no-fuss and flavorful, which makes them perfect for busy holidays and busy lives. Dr. Earl loved to fish and was on a semi-pro bass team for years. In the early 1980’s Sue wrote and illustrated a short cookbook of “nothing but bass” recipes, with the star being a dish of bass, butter, canned mushrooms, and white wine that is prepared in the microwave. While the idea of microwaved fish may not appeal to our sophisticated 2021 tastes, in 1981, it was revolutionary. 

I have doubled and even tripled this quiche recipe with great results, and it’s perfectly easy to throw together at, say, 1:00 a.m. and refrigerate overnight. I’ve included my spin on Sue’s original “crustless bacon quiche” recipe below, as well as several variations I’ve tried over the years. 

Late Night Crustless Quiche

4 eggs 
1 ½ cups milk
½ cup biscuit mix
3 TB melted butter (you can also use 3 TB bacon drippings)
⅛ tsp cayenne pepper
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
8 strips of bacon, cooked and crumbled

Combine eggs, milk, biscuit mix, melted butter, and red pepper, stirring until well mixed. Pour into a greased quiche pan or pie plate. Press bacon and cheddar below the surface. Bake at 350 degrees for 20-30 minutes, until set in the middle. Let stand for 15-20 minutes before serving. 

Variations on bacon and cheddar: 

• Sautéed spinach and mozzarella 

  • 2 cups fresh baby spinach

  • 1 clove garlic, chopped

  • 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese 

Drizzle pan with olive oil and saute garlic along with the baby spinach until wilted. Press spinach below the surface of the egg mixture, along with the mozzarella. 

• Roasted tomatoes and feta 

  • 2 TB olive oil

  • 1 cup cherry tomatoes

  • salt and pepper to taste

  • ½ cup feta cheese

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss tomatoes in olive oil and salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes or until the tomatoes burst. Press tomatoes below the surface of the egg mixture, along with the feta cheese. 

• Smoked salmon with ricotta and green onions

  • 6 oz smoked salmon

  • ½ cup ricotta cheese

  • 2 green onions, chopped

Press salmon below the surface of the egg mixture, and dollop the egg mixture with the ricotta cheese. Once cool, top with green onions. 

• Chopped ham and Havarti 

  • 5 slices deli ham

  • 2 oz. Havarti cheese, sliced thinly

 Press ham below the surface of the egg mixture, along with the Havarti cheese.

From Our Ancestry Cookbook: Pumpkin Crisp

Not all Southern mothers are known for their culinary skills.

My mother, God rest her soul, lacked a basic understanding of kitchen science. If a green bean casserole called for two tablespoons of sour cream, Mom would add a cup – “I love sour cream!” – and we would stab at the floating beans on our plate, trying to capture and corral them.

My Big Mama wasn’t much of a cook, either. Her biscuits were flat and extra crispy (read: burned). She would heat up a can of roast beef with gravy and spoon it over the cracked-open pucks for an easy Sunday supper. Those same biscuits would then be split and eaten with maple syrup for dessert.

Dining with The Parnell’s

Mom and Big Mama had other talents, the latter a well-known seamstress from Holly Springs whose pleats and ruffles were exquisite. And I wouldn’t trade those food memories for anything. I loved them both deeply, but cooking wasn’t their thing, and their recipes aren’t the culinary dragons that I chase.

Still, we have many great cooks in my larger family from my maternal great-great grandfather’s line, having immigrated from Devon, England, and I count myself lucky that the family compiled and published a cookbook "Dining With The Parnells" years ago. Each chapter starts with genealogy and stories about our forebears, and collectively, it says so much about us. Reading back through it not long ago, I realized that it includes the following:

• 13 cornbread recipes

• 7 recipes for chicken spaghetti

• 6 recipes for taco soup and 2 for tortilla soup

• 6 recipes for chocolate pie

The Tex-Mex doesn’t surprise me. Most of the family is from northern Louisiana near Ruston. And the Cajun and Creole influences are there, though less so (one recipe for jambalaya; three for etouffee; and two for shrimp creole). And I have been pleased with the cousins throwing in some surprises, especially Cousin Becky, for submitting a recipe for pad thai.

There are many great publishers out there who will work with a family to produce such cookbooks, and if your family hasn’t thought to do so, you might consider it. Ours is a treasure, and it includes this great dessert, a pumpkin crisp in the same vein as a dump cake, from Cousin Cynthia Boyd Harper.

Enjoy …

Pumpkin Crisp

1 15 oz. can of pumpkin
1 cup evaporated milk
1 cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 box butter-flavored yellow cake mix
1 cup pecans, chopped
1 cup butter, melted
Ground nutmeg
Whipped cream, for serving

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Stir together the first five ingredients then pour and spread evenly into a lightly greased 9 x 13 baking dish. Sprinkle the cake mix over the pumpkin mixture then sprinkle the top evenly with the pecans. Press pecans lightly into the cake mix. Drizzle the butter over the top.

Bake for 60 minutes or longer until the crust is golden brown. THE PECANS WILL START TO LOOK BURNED. Do not worry. The butter makes them turn darker, but the taste and texture should be just fine.

Allow to cool for about 20 minutes then sprinkle lightly with nutmeg and top with whipped cream.

Vegetable Beef Soup for People Who Zoom

Today, I found myself halfway through an unproductive, hour-long Zoom meeting contemplating a very important question: Should I turn off my camera and move my laptop to the kitchen so that I can get a jump start on chopping carrots? It would be very easy to set up my laptop on the kitchen ledge and listen to the presentation while prepping vegetables. My fear, however, is that the steam of sauteed onions might fog the camera, if I were, by chance, called upon to speak.

I resisted the urge and labored through the final twenty minutes of the program, then quickly jumped to my feet to cook the way I have learned best over the past 20 months: in 15-minute increments. What may come as a surprise, or none at all to those of you who have spent years being interrupted in the kitchen is that this fractured method of cooking often results in dishes that have a lovely depth of flavor. 

In our family, vegetable beef soup has traditionally been prepared with stew meat and at least one variety of legumes, most often black eyed peas or butter beans. The version I’m sharing today uses a few shortcuts, including ground beef and frozen vegetables, which makes it ideal for a weekday dinner. For me, it is worth a special trip to Whole Foods to buy their frozen vegetable mix which includes lima beans. 

For this vegetable beef soup, I browned the ground beef and drained it on paper towels, removing most of the fat from the pot but leaving the brown bits. I came back an hour later and sauteed the onions and carrots in the remnants of the beef fat, then added the tomatoes and tomato sauce. After yet another invigorating, virtual meeting, I returned to add the frozen vegetables, broth, additional seasoning, and the browned beef. The result is a hearty, cozy soup assembled during those beautiful, empty spots on your calendar that are wedged between calls and video conferences.

Vegetable Beef Soup for People Who Zoom

1 pound ground beef
½ medium onion, chopped
½ cup chopped carrots
1 pint cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
1 teaspoon dry ranch seasoning
1 8 oz can tomato sauce
1 16 oz bag of frozen, mixed vegetables
4 cups low sodium beef broth 
1 tablespoon Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon oregano
2 bay leaves 
Salt and pepper to taste 

Brown ground beef in a pot over medium-high heat until no longer pink, breaking into small bits. Remove beef with a slotted spoon to drain on paper towels. Discard any excess fat, leaving a teaspoon or so in the pan. Saute onions and carrots in the pot, scraping up browned bits from the pot as the vegetables begin to sweat. Once the onion and carrot soften, add the tomatoes and dry Ranch dressing, as well as pepper to taste. Add the following seven ingredients to the pot, and salt and pepper to taste. 

Leave to simmer on low for two to four hours, or until your workday is done. Remove bay leaves before serving. 

This dish is a hearty answer for those limiting carbs but still craving comfort foods in cooler temperatures. Of course, serving it alongside crispy cornbread would be mighty fine. 

An Asian Twist on Comeback Sauce

Funny how these ideas start.

It was a conversation about gochujang, the Korean chili sauce. I fell in love with it several years ago when I discovered it at Wally World in the Asian foods section.

I started keeping it in my regular pantry rotation to use in sauces and marinades, in particular for making Korean bulgogi, a flavorful beef dish that you will return to time and again.

Alas, I have lamented gochujang’s disappearance from Wally’s shelves for quite some time now. Like those cotton candy grapes they have for about five days once per year, I walk slowly past the section, confirm its absence, then continue on with less spring in my step. Oh, how thou hast forsaken me, Wally World!

Our friend LeAnne recently posted a food pic with a cabbage slaw and gochujang-mayo sauce. She used a recipe from Bon Appetit. Chili sauce and mayo. I immediately made the connection between the gochujang-mayo and Comeback’s chili sauce-mayo recipe requirement and wondered aloud: “What if?”

LeAnne’s reply: “Like an effing umami bomb!”  

I sought that answer, and LeAnne was right. I flipped several of Comeback’s required ingredients to their Asian counterparts, and the result is fantastic.

If you are not from Mississippi or the South, Comeback Sauce has a variety of uses: delightful on salads as a dressing, as a dipping sauce for chicken or anything fried, and as a condiment for sandwiches and such. Essentially, it is Mississippi’s version of a remoulade, or it’s akin to Thousand Island dressing without the pickles, but with more heat and a garlicky and oniony bite.

Here, like LeAnne, I used it in a slaw.

If you haven’t made Comeback before, note that you will find many versions out there. There is an historic version with a curry bent, which is fine with me as a novelty, but I would much rather encourage the heat and bite innate to the non-curry styles.

Oxford chef and restauranteur John Currence makes the standard Comeback version that I like the most – raw onion and garlic instead of their powdered counterparts, though I do reduce his ketchup requirement and up the chili sauce in its place. That’s one great thing about Comeback – it’s flexible.

You can find Mr. Currence’s recipe by Googling “John Currence Comeback Sauce” and selecting the James Beard Foundation blog link. 

So, ultimately, here is a recipe twist on an old Mississippi standard. Note that the sesame oil and fish sauce are optional. They are there to replace the traditional paprika and add a nice, albeit subtle, background flavor, but they are not required, especially if you would have to buy those ingredients just to use for this.

Watch that pocketbook. And enjoy …

Asian Twist Comeback Sauce

1 ¼ cups mayonnaise
¼ cup gochujang chili sauce
2 TB shallot, minced
1 TB minced garlic
1 TB freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tsp soy sauce (see note about salt)
1 tsp prepared spicy mustard
2 TB olive oil
½ tsp fish sauce (optional)
¼ tsp sesame oil (optional) 

Whisk all the ingredients in a bowl if you want the shallot and garlic bits to really pop. Or you can add all ingredients except oil to a blender and blend for about 20 seconds, then stream the oil in and blend until thoroughly combined. Pour into a Mason jar or other container and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. If it can sit overnight, even better.

For the Asian slaw, I mixed one 16 oz. bag of pre-shredded, tricolor slaw with 1 cup of the Asian Comeback. If you like a less saucy slaw, start by adding ¾ cup then judge to your liking. Allow prepared slaw to cool and soften in the refrigerator for at least an hour before serving.

The recipe yields a little more than 12 oz. of sauce/dressing so you will have some left over if you are using it to make slaw as I described, or you can use 24 oz. of pre-shredded tricolor slaw from two bags to use the entire recipe of sauce/dressing.

In talking to Maggie about the recipe, she mentioned some great other pairings for the sauce: drizzle on top of an Asian rice bowl with fried chicken and kimchi, as a sauce for tempura-fried green tomatoes and shrimp, and on pulled pork nachos with mozzarella and cilantro. Yum! She had me at fried green tomatoes. Make a fried green tomato po'boy with bacon and cool, crisp lettuce, drizzle some sauce on, and you will never look at a BLT the same way again.

NOTE ABOUT SALT: I used regular soy sauce (not low sodium) and did not need to add salt. If you use a lower sodium soy sauce, you may add more soy sauce to taste or you may want to add salt at the end. Taste along the way, and you can’t go wrong.

A Tribute to the Months that End in “R”

Or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Oysters on the Half-Shell at Home

Grilled oysters on the half-shell with garlic-Parmesan butter, ginger-soy sauce, cocktail sauce, mignonette, kimchi, lemon wedges, cilantro, green onion, thyme and chives

Yeah, no fibbin’. You can do it. You can have raw oysters at home. And from my personal experience, you’ll be super proud and enjoy them even more because you did it yourself.

Raw oysters on the half-shell with mignonette, hot sauces, kimchi, green onions, ginger-soy sauce, cilantro, cocktail sauce and lemon wedges.

The time is right. We are solidly-positioned in the “r”-months, which are often considered a safer time to enjoy raw oysters (though that’s debatable). So with September behind us, and the waters getting cooler, despite climate change, it’s time to enjoy the ocean’s shellfish harvest. And my favorite thing to harvest is raw oysters. I fancy the smaller, creamy west coast varieties, but I won’t turn my nose up at a big, briny east coast shell, either.

Four kinds of oysters (west coast on left; east coast on right)

I recently got four kinds and tasted them at the same time to compare them. The right side is east coast; the left side, west. The Hammersleys (excuse the spelling error in the pic), from South Puget Sound in Washington state, were far and away my favorite, with a creamy, meaty, mineral taste. 

My second favorite were the Miyagis, from Hood Canal, Washington. They’re tangy and have a little bit of cucumber flavor.

Of the east coasters (both from Massachusetts), I preferred the Moonrises for their sweeter flavor, while the South Bay Blondes mostly came across as big and salty. 

To prepare oysters on the half-shell, you’ll need a cut-resistant glove, a shucking knife, and a strong belief in your ability to learn new things. After that, you need a good purveyor and solid knowledge of the concept of time and temperature management. 

With all raw foods, it’s important to trust your source and handle your raw ingredients carefully. That means purchasing on the day you plan to serve if possible and keeping your oysters between 34 and 40 degrees at all times. Bring along a bag of ice and a cooler, even if they’ll only be in transit for 20 minutes. Better safe than sorry.

Once you get them home, put them curved side down in a dish, cover with a clean, wet towel and refrigerate until ready to shuck. To clean them, I prefer a clean toothbrush and cold water.  Oyster shells are made of calcium, like our teeth, so it makes sense to me. Don’t submerge them in water. Place the oysters in a colander and rinse them under cold running water as you quickly scrub them with the toothbrush. Rinse again, then return them to the dish, covered with a clean, wet towel as you shuck them.

To shuck them, wear a cut-resistant glove on your non-dominant hand. Place the oyster curved-side down in that hand and use a sharp, short knife (it doesn’t have to be an “oyster” knife, but sharp and short are both helpful attributes to have for this task) in the other hand to shimmy open the oyster at the hinge. Rock the blade back and forth to open the oyster. As soon as it opens, wipe off the blade on a clean towel to avoid getting pieces of the shell inside the oyster. Run the knife along the top of the shell to release the meat from the shell. Discard the top of the shell.  

NOW: SMELL EACH OYSTER TO MAKE SURE IT’S GOOD. If it smells bad, discard it and reluctantly accept that throwing away a bad, though perfectly-shucked oyster is part of the learning process. This is not a step to skip. Wipe off the knife again. Then, gently scrape the oyster meat away from the bottom of the shell where it’s attached. Yay, you did it!

Place the oysters on ice, rock salt, lettuce or anything else that keeps them from tipping over (or, pro-tip: skip the fluffy base and use a deviled egg platter instead, as they seem tailor-made for oysters on the half shell), and serve with whatever sauces and goodies you prefer. Then all that’s left to do is marvel at your new-found abilities! 

Here are my favorite sauces for serving:

Mignonette Sauce

3 TB minced shallot or red onion
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 tsp sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1/8 tsp pepper

Garlic-Parmesan Butter Sauce

1 stick unsalted butter, melted
2 TB grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 tsp garlic powder

Ginger-Soy Sauce

1/4 cup soy sauce
2 TB lime juice
2 TB lemon juice
1 tsp grated ginger
1 tsp minced garlic
1/4 tsp bonito flakes or fish sauce
1 green onion, thinly sliced on the bias

Cocktail Sauce

1/2 cup ketchup
2 TB horseradish
1 TB lemon juice
1 TB gin
1/4 tsp pepper

For each sauce, combine all ingredients in a small mixing bowl and transfer to a ramekin or small serving bowl. All sauces can be made ahead, covered, and refrigerated for up to 5 days. If making the Ginger Soy Sauce ahead, wait to add the green onion until ready to serve.

Oysters on the grill

Oh, and if you’re a little nervous and want slightly cooked oysters, throw them on the grill, curved side down, and wait til they open. On a grill set to medium heat, that’s about 5 to 7 minutes, depending on their size. You still have to follow the same steps to separate them from the top and bottom parts of the shells, but you skip the opening step and if they DON’T open, you know they weren’t safe to eat.  

Opened oysters, after grilling 5 minutes

In the end, preparing oysters is like so many culinary tasks – from making crepes to grilling a steak – you’re probably going to mess it up the first time. But once you do it a couple of times, you’re part of a special group. A group of people who thought it was worth trying, who thought they should give it a shot. And I’m here to tell you, it feels great being part of that group. Alright, go on out and enjoy those “r” months, already! 

Digging Through Grief, Mining the Good Memories

It wasn’t long after mama was diagnosed that she lost her taste for scotch. In her final weeks, she didn’t have much taste for coffee either. We’d brew a cup and then I’d take it back and forth to the microwave, reheating it for 20 seconds at a time over the course of the morning. I’d pour it down the sink around noon, still full.

The radiation rewired her brain, and where before she might have something sweet with her afternoon coffee, she now woke up to a Danish, had cake for lunch, or would eat pie alone for supper. Then she lost her taste for sweets, and nearly overnight, couldn’t remember whether she’d eaten that day at all.

My refrigerator is full of pasta and meat. Big hunks of pork tenderloin and ham. Sheet pans full of creamy noodles. I’ve lost the taste for all these things, too.

Why do we bring food to the bereaved? Certainly, it does help feed my children when I haven’t had the wits to cook, but the sight of disposable aluminum sends me into a slight depression. More than once, I’ve been tempted to throw it all away, or wrap it with freezer paper and hide it, out of sight, somewhere deep down in the deep freeze.

But, I don’t. Instead, I deconstruct it all to make dishes that mama would have made. I slice the King's Hawaiian Rolls loaf straight through the center and pile it with Honey Baked Ham and cheddar cheese. I let my daughter crack eggs and beat them with a fork, slippery yolks all over the counter. I fry them into a thin crepe and transfer the eggs from the pan to the top of the cheese, taking satisfaction in the way it melts under the heat. The other half of the loaf is placed on top, and carefully I slice it along the perforated seams to make 16 perfectly portioned breakfast sandwiches.

I’ll eat one while I drink my coffee. I’ll probably have another later, now at room temperature after sitting on the counter all morning. Then, I’ll eat one more tonight with my scotch, just because I know I need something to soak up the liquor.

I’ll try to dig my way through the grief and mine the good memories, but most likely, I’ll end up staring into the refrigerator again, wondering what to do with all this food and wishing she were here to tell me.

The Cure for Boring Potato Salad

In the South, we have the distinction of having some of the best food anywhere on the planet, whether served commercially or on most Southern home tables.

We have the advantage of the melding of so many different, flavorful cuisines by the region’s early settlers. Any subtlety the French, British and Scottish influences may have had were overshadowed when they blended with African, American Indian, and Spanish influences that were bursting with flavor - thank the Lord, the lard, and Epicurious for that. 

We like our food to jump up off the plate and smack you right in the mouth, sometimes just a tap, sometimes like Mohammed Ali, often with a left-hook or a late hit, but always a direct, intentional swing at the tastebuds, every plate having a star as well as a delicious supporting cast.

We like it fresh and bold. Southern food, music, and hospitality are legend, points of pride for us, and the things visitors to the region most always mention when they talk about their visits here.  

Growing up the child of a German mother, aunts, uncles, and grandparents, (Whew! That’s a whole ‘nother story!), I thought that German potato salad WAS potato salad. The sweet, the sour, the eggs. THE BACON.

Heavenly. Honestly, there’s German food I can easily live without, but the potato salad is not one of them.

I distinctly remember, as a small, aspiring food snob, attending different, otherwise quite satisfactory, church and neighborhood gatherings that most always included a meal. Vicksburg had some wonderful cooks back in the day, and I was lucky enough to have slung up at the tables of some of the best of them. I can still taste the fried chicken, and Oh my God, the homemade ravioli (a recipe I never got and would kill for). And the homemade rolls, candies, and desserts, the reason stretch pants were invented.

Oh, My Groceries!

Then there was the potato salad. Sigh. It was bland, it was drippy, often yellow, and, THERE WAS NO BACON. To my mind, a waste of good potatoes. Of all the incredible dishes, it was so… blah.  I didn’t understand. I recall getting the don’t-you-say-a-word look from my Mother when the potato salad was passed. I finally got used to regular, non-German potato salad, but even now it seems to be a missed opportunity.

Many years later, Lord knows where I ran across a potato salad recipe I knew even as I read it would be killer. Sure enough, I’ve made it dozens of times. It is different, delicious, and worth every stinkin’ carb. It is a great accompaniment for just about any casual meal or stuffed in new potatoes as an hors d’oeuvre. And it is German Mother Approved - she loved it!

With the addition of a spicy vinaigrette and pork, it’s almost an homage to her German potato salad.

I am happy to share this and hope that it will save you from having to disappoint any finicky urchins, or other guests, with sad, unremarkable potato salad. And for all else, Lord, I apologize.

Ham & Swiss Potato Salad

3 lb. bag red potatoes
2-3 bunches green onions
1/3 – 1/2 lb. Swiss Cheese (good quality, like Sargento or better)
1/3 – ½ lb. ham (good quality, thinly sliced)
1 cup or so olive oil or garlic oil
1/3 cup or so red wine vinegar
4-8 oz. whole-grain mustard
Salt & freshly ground Pepper, to taste

Directions

Make this dish an hour or so ahead of time and let sit at room temp until service. It can be made a day or so ahead, just cover and store in the fridge.

Cut potatoes in half leaving the skin on and put in a pot with salted, boiling water. This recipe works best when the potatoes are hot, so prep all the other ingredients as the potatoes are boiling.

Chop the green onions. The Swiss cheese can be cut into thin strips or grated. It sounds a little counterintuitive, but you needn’t break the bank on the ham. Good quality, thinly sliced, pre-packaged deli ham works best, sliced into thin strips.

In a container large enough to hold the whole thing, whisk the olive oil and red wine vinegar. A good ratio is about 3:1 oil to vinegar. Whisk in the whole grain mustard; use about half to start. Peel the ham and Swiss slices apart and set them aside.

When the potatoes are done, drain and dump them on a cutting board, and chop them like you’re Lizzie Borden having a really, really bad day. Maybe not the entire forty whacks, but the potatoes should be roughly chopped and not particularly uniform. This dish works best when the potatoes are hot and cut after they’re cooked.

Dump the hot chopped potatoes into the vinaigrette and mix well. Add the ham strips, the chopped green onions, and toss. Lastly, add the Swiss strips after the mixture has cooled for just a minute - we’re not tryin to make fondue.

Add salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasonings; mix well. More mustard can be added now or later if needed, and more vinegar, too. There really is no way to predict how much the potatoes will absorb or how bold and spicy your mustard is.

Garnish with more chopped green onion, fried green onion, and/or fresh chopped parsley.

Directions For Hors D’Oeuvres

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place 3-5 lbs. washed new potatoes on a cookie sheet, spray with Pam and sprinkle with sea salt. Bake until soft.

Make vinaigrette as above. Chop ham, green onions, a little smaller this time. Cheese can be chopped smaller or grated.

When the potatoes are done but still warm, carefully core the potatoes with a knife and throw the scooped portion into the vinaigrette, along with the ham, Swiss, and green onions. Mix well, adjust seasonings, taste.

Spoon mixture into cored new potatoes. Place on cookie sheets, cover, and refrigerate. Heat in a 300-degree oven for 10 minutes, enough to knock the chill off. Garnish with a few extra chopped green onions, fried chopped green onions, and/or fresh parsley.

Melons and Memories: Watermelon Lemonade

Greetings, friends and neighbors! Hoping everyone`s summer has been filled with sunshine, fun and fellowship.

August is gearing up to be August. As a born and raised Southerner, August is the month I dread the most. The summer heat and humidity are kicked in full-tilt boogie, the homegrown tomatoes are winding down, the flip flops have flipped their last flop.

A strange shift in the universe takes place in and over Water Valley as the last bottle rocket is fired and the rocket's red glare slowly fades into the lingering smoke left behind from July`s celebration of Independence.

Here in Water Valley Mississippi, thoughts go from red, white, and blue to green and red. 

The decorations are brought down from dust covered boxes in the attic corner, the blinking and twinkling lights are untangled and checked, flags of a different variety are unfurled, giant lawn ornaments are staked, and wooden door hangings are hung from every front door in town.

If you thought I was shouting out Christmas in July, well, folks, you would be wrong. 

My adoration and reverence are directed towards a celebration of community - The Watermelon Carnival.

The Watermelon Carnival is one of the many ways we show love and pride for our community and town. 

Residents of our tiny Southern town welcome visitors from across the state to enjoy all things watermelon.

Y`all let me just go ahead and tell you that none of us come to play when it is Carnival time. This is one of those “get right or get left” moments. You best believe that all the grandmas are going to have the husbands, the sons, and all the whippersnapper young folks out mowing, trimming, raking, and sweeping.

Not a blade of grass will be out of place come carnival weekend.  We show up and show out as a community because when company comes you put on your Sunday best and bring out the good silver.

The week of the Watermelon Carnival is, hands-down, my busiest week as a business owner.   The BTC will be jumping every moment of every day. In my restaurant The Dixie Belle Café, we will showcase watermelon all week long.

As a chef, it is one of my favorite weeks of the year because it not only allows me to think out of the box but forces me to use all my experience, skills, and imagination to create beautiful food focused on watermelon.

If you follow me as a chef, then one of the things you associate with me is that I personally use food to speak to you on a different level. The Southern child who hung on my grandmother's apron strings and watched her cook is the core of who I am as a chef. My own memories are triggered each day I walk into my kitchen to cook, and I want to trigger those same memories with you, the customer.

Memories, smells, and tastes of our Southern childhoods and days past where we sat together at a makeshift table adorned with fried chicken, peas, tomatoes, cornbread, and watermelon. A table where stories were shared and love was given and received as we shared a meal in the summer heat.

One of the things always on my family's Southern table was lemonade. This Southern summer elixir is also one of the things I serve every year in my cafe for the watermelon carnival.

Watermelon lemonade, of course.

Nothing beats the heat like an ice-cold pitcher of lemonade. And nothing screams “Southern” like lemonade; we do it, and we do it well.

The Watermelon Carnival is the Water Valley community inviting you to come sit at our grandmother's table. All things watermelon will be served as an August breeze slices through the summer heat.

We will tell you the stories as we watch our local farmers bring in giant watermelons hoping to break the state record, and we will share in the memories of people and carnivals past as we create new memories together.

Here is my recipe for Dixie Belle Watermelon Lemonade. Southerners like lemonade super sweet and super tart. Feel free to adjust the recipe to the way you enjoy lemonade.

And Happy Watermelon Carnival 2021! If you are around this weekend, come enjoy the fun!

Dixie Belle’s Watermelon Lemonade

2 1/2 cups sugar (feel free to adjust to your personal taste)
8 cups water
4 1/2 cups red watermelon, cubed
12 large lemons, juiced (roughly 1-1½ cups)

Directions

Make a simple syrup. In a small pot, add water and sugar, turn heat on low, and cook until sugar is dissolved. Once sugar is completely dissolved, turn off heat and set to the side.

While the water sugar mixture is cooking, puree fresh watermelon in a blender. Do not overcrowd. Small batches work best, and sometimes it is necessary to add a touch of water, depending on your blender.

After the melon is pureed, you will want to skim off the foamy top with a ladle. In a serving pitcher of choice, mix pureed watermelon, lemon juice, and simple syrup. I like to float thin slices of fresh lemon and fresh mint as a garnish. Serve over ice.

Hot Stuff: Pepper Cheese Squares

I found this great recipe called “Hot Stuff” in the “Vintage Vicksburg” cookbook, sourced to Kathleen Hand Carter of Rolling Fork, Mississippi.

It has 10 eggs but is not eggy and a half cup of flour but not bready. With loads of cheese and your personal degree of heat, this is a pretty light dish that is perfect as party food, a side, or a breakfast delight.

Let’s talk about the heat: the original recipe only uses a 4 oz. can of green chiles, and any heat those chiles may provide kind of gets lost. If you want to start kicking it up, use a 4 oz. can of diced jalapenos instead; add 1-3 TB of your favorite hot sauce; and dot the top with pickled jalapenos.

And about that cheese: it calls for 16 oz. shredded pepper Jack. I recommend that you buy the block and shred it yourself. This makes it a little more time-consuming but bagged shredded cheese may include potato starch or other ingredients to keep the shreds separated, which can, in turn, make it less melty when added to a dish.

Enjoy …

Pepper Cheese Squares

1 stick butter or margarine
10 eggs
½ cup flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 4 oz. can diced chiles or jalapenos
1 – 3 TB of your favorite hot sauce (optional)
1 pint small curd cottage cheese
1 pound pepper Jack cheese, shredded
15 – 20 sliced, pickled jalapenos (optional)

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put the stick of butter in a 9 x 13 glass casserole dish and put in the oven to let the butter melt.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt to the eggs. Don’t worry – you will get some clumps, but they will disappear when you add the butter.

Add the can of peppers and the hot sauce, if using, to the egg mixture and stir.

Remove the casserole dish from the oven, swirl the butter across the bottom of the dish, then pour remaining butter into a measuring cup or small bowl. Then, pour butter into the egg mixture while stirring. I’ve been worried about curdling the egg with the hot butter at this stage, but it hasn’t happened so far.

Add cottage cheese and shredded pepper jack cheese while stirring.

Pour the mixture into casserole dish. If you are going to add jalapeno slices, place them in rows across the top. 

Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350 degrees and bake from 30 – 40 minutes until top is golden brown.

Allow to cool then slice and serve! These reheat beautifully the next day. 

Summertime Catfish Creole

Peanut butter and catfish. These were the two staples in our house during the COVID-19 quarantine of 2020. My husband likes peanut butter on both sides of the bread, with jelly in the middle. My daughters prefer their crusts cut off. I like my peanut butter sandwich with mayonnaise and bananas, which is another story entirely. 

Now, I know that no one wants to be reminded of the COVID days when we scoured empty shelves and deli coolers at the grocery store or of the painstaking sanitization of cereal boxes and milk cartons. But you likely remember acutely the shortage of many staples, meat in particular. What a bountiful blessing it was to always find the neat red and white boxes of Simmons Catfish from Yazoo City on the freezer shelves of my neighborhood market. 

I am brand loyal to Simmons Catfish for many reasons, one being that the two “Simmons sisters” were sisters of my own in the Tau Chapter of Chi Omega at Ole Miss. My total adoration of these fabulous women aside, Simmons is consistently the best quality catfish to come out of Mississippi. The size, flavor, and freshness are always on point, and through a technique called IQF, which prevents the fish from sticking together in icy captivity, one can easily pull out the exact portion needed for a recipe. The beauty of a box of Simmons Catfish is in the knowing--the knowing that you have a secret weapon in your freezer that can feed your family, and the folks next door, three and four times over. 

My favorite style of cooking is the approach where you open the pantry and pursue an impromptu culinary jam session. In the case of creole cooking, a box of catfish is like having Dr. John sit in. You know it is going to be good. 

Below is my recipe for catfish creole, which includes a generous helping of cherry tomatoes from the summer garden. The fresh tomatoes give this dish a nice, acidic balance. For this recipe, look for Simmon’s “fillet cuts” which are smaller cuts of the fillet and perfect for stews, gumbos, and creoles like this one. If you can’t find fillet cuts, be sure to slice your catfish fillets crosswise before adding them to the creole recipe. 

Summertime Catfish Creole

1 lb. Simmons Catfish Fillet Cuts
1 bell pepper, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 T Butter
1 quart cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
1 ½ t oregano
1 ½ t thyme
1 ½ t white pepper
Dash of ground red pepper or red pepper flake, if you like it spicy
Salt & Pepper to taste
Granulated garlic to taste
1 14.5 oz can Petite Diced Tomatoes
1 14.5 oz can Petite Diced “Chili Ready” Tomatoes
1 T worcestershire sauce 
2 bay leaves

1 C Rice, prepared according to the recipe below 

In a baking dish, cover frozen catfish with water to defrost. Once defrosted (30 min), drain the water and season with salt, pepper, and granulated garlic. It is not necessary to pat dry the catfish for this recipe. Any standard seasoning mix like Tony Chachere’s or my new favorite, Kirkland Brand No-Salt Seasoning, will do.  

Melt butter in a dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat. Add bell pepper, celery, onion, and garlic. Salt and Pepper to taste. Saute until tender. 

Add sliced cherry tomatoes to the pot, along with oregano, thyme, white pepper, red pepper. Stir and let simmer for 1-2 minutes, until tomatoes soften. Add the canned tomatoes, along with the Worcestershire and bay leaves. Let simmer on medium heat for 15 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. 

Add catfish and allow to simmer for 20 minutes, until the catfish appears firm and white, or flakes to the touch. You can let this simmer on low for a while, or serve immediately over ¼ cup of rice with crispy bread and butter as a side. 

For the rice: I’ve never been able to make decent rice with the traditional stovetop method. This oven-cooked rice turns out perfectly every time. 

1 C rice

1 T Butter
1 t Salt 
2 C water

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine rice, butter, and salt in a 13x9 baking dish. Bring water to a boil and pour over rice. Stir and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 25-30 minutes. Let sit covered for 5 minutes after removing from the oven. Fluff with a fork and serve.

Expectations Being Met at Mary Mahoney’s

Growing up on the Mississippi Gulf Coast it was always clear “The Coast” (as we all call it) lives in the shadow of the great City of New Orleans, which is only an hour west of it.  When most people think of really fresh, decadent seafood, and the dining establishments that serve these mouth-watering dishes, their mind almost always wanders to New Orleans and all of its historical restaurants.  Not to take anything away from those amazing establishments (I’m sure I’ll be writing about some of those places on this very blog in the near future), but The Coast has a place or 2 to brag about itself: first, and foremost, being Mary Mahoney’s.

Located right off the beach in Biloxi, the Mary Mahoney’s building was built in the early 1700s by a Frenchman who designed it in a traditional French architectural style: high ceilings, intimate dining rooms, and a beautiful courtyard.  It was a residential property until purchased by the Mahoneys in 1962.  From that time on, it could boast of feeding President Ronald Reagan and Vice-President George Bush on the White House Lawn, and has survived catastrophic hurricanes and, most recently, a global pandemic.  While this foodie can appreciate beautiful architecture and history, it takes a backseat to the wine and FOOD.

Mary Mahoney’s is a place I always heard people speak of when I was growing up, but it was known as a fancy grown up place I was not going to have the luxury of trying any time soon.    Being an avid reader since as far back as I can recall, I clearly remember reading John Grisham novels all throughout high school, and being amazed when Mary Mahoney’s was the setting for one of the most famous scenes in The Runaway Jury when the sequestered jury marches into Mary Mahoney’s much to the shock of the presiding judge on the case who is enjoying a persnickety lunch with his colleagues.  I needed to eat at this place!

This all added to the lore of Mary Mahoney’s to me so, when I finally did reach adulthood and made it there, my hopes were high, high, high.  Since first going, I have been lucky enough to eat at Mary Mahoney’s a dozen or so times now, and it is not an exaggeration to say it is nothing short of phenomenal every single time I am lucky enough to dine there all the way from the cuisine to the exceptional service.

Whenever my husband and I make it back to Biloxi, he invariably asks me “did you make us a reservation at Mary Mahoney’s?”  It is just THAT GOOD.  His favorite item on the menu is the seafood gumbo – I believe that man could eat it by the gallon.  I like to start with their shrimp cocktail and continue on with one of their “Crabmeat Imperial” selections, which is an insanely delicious homemade crabmeat stuffing that can be ordered stuffed in several different kinds of seafood – you will think you have died and gone to foodie heaven once you have tried the Flounder Imperial or Lobster Imperial on a bed of creamy pasta.  Great care is taken to serve  traditional French creole food at its best here and, yet, they make it appear simple.

Sop it up with some of their crusty French bread, wash it down with a chilled white wine, and I defy you to say you have ever had a better meal. 5 out of 5 pours.

5th Sunday Blasphemy: Reconstructing Chicken Spectacular

If you aren’t familiar with Chicken Spectacular, perhaps some of the casserole’s ingredients will spark a memory: French cut green beans, wild rice, pimientos, water chestnuts, and cream of celery soup.

It’s one of those classics that’s a cinch to throw together for any gathering.

The casserole had fallen off my radar for a couple of decades, but when I skimmed the recipe in an old cookbook not long ago, I remembered it as popular 5th Sunday potluck fare that we had at church when I was growing up.

For the uninitiated, any month that had five Sundays, instead of four, was cause for celebration at our church, and we would have a post-service potluck lunch. The church would provide fried chicken, then the congregants would fill table after table with casseroles and desserts. At least one family would always bring a big pan of Chicken Spectacular, it seemed.  

Having recently rediscovered this lost dish, what did I do? Cooked it the classic way a couple of times. I fell in love with it all over again. Then, like the blasphemer that I am, I wondered: can this be improved?

Well, it depends on how you define “improvement.”

The beauty of the classic dish is how easy it is to throw together. The only bother to the original recipe is getting your chicken together, cooking some wild rice, and softening some onion in butter. Mix all the ingredients up with some canned cream of celery soup and mayonnaise, bake it off, and you are good to go. Easy enough.

If you don’t have any extra time, then Google the thousand versions out there and make it just like that. It’s delicious.

But, if you have about 15 extra minutes, make your own celery cream sauce: add some diced celery into the pan with the onion and cook until it softens, make a quick roux, then add some chicken broth and evaporated milk, simmer for a few minutes to thicken it up, and voila!

Classic or reconstructed? Your choice.

Enjoy …

Reconstructed Chicken Spectacular

1 6 oz. box Uncle Ben’s Long Grain and Wild Rice, prepared
3 cups cooked, diced chicken
4 oz. pimientos, drained and diced
2 cans French style green beans, drained
1 8 oz. can water chestnuts, drained and diced
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 sweet onion, medium, diced
4 ribs celery, diced
1 tsp garlic, minced
4 TB butter, divided
2 TB flour
3/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup evaporated milk
1 cup cheddar cheese, shredded (optional)
Salt and pepper, to taste 

Directions

First, get your chicken and your wild rice prepared. Note that you can use 2 packages of the Uncle Ben’s ready rice and get the same results. (I was skeptical of ready rice until I found an Elizabeth Heiskell recipe that used it; it works particularly well in casseroles.)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Next, make the cream of celery sauce. Melt 2 TB butter in a pan and throw in the celery. Let it cook a couple of minutes then throw in the onion. Cook them both about 5 minutes then add your garlic in. Cook another 2 minutes, careful that the garlic doesn’t burn.

Add the additional 2 TB butter. Once the additional butter has melted, add the 2 TB flour and whisk about a minute. The mixture will begin to seize up. When it does, add in your chicken stock, stirring to make a thick sauce. Simmer for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly, then reduce the heat and add the evaporated milk. Simmer on low for about 5 minutes until the sauce has thickened. Remove from heat and add salt and pepper, to taste.

In a large mixing bowl, mix the chicken, rice, sauce, and all remaining ingredients except cheddar cheese. Check to see if it needs additional salt.

Pour into a 9 x 13 casserole dish and bake for 30 minutes until bubbly. If you want, add cheddar to the top and cook an additional 5 minutes or so until melted.

Time Well Spent: 8-Hour Pork Chops

It’s the last week of school here, and (probably news to no one) it’s been a rough one.

Everyone’s been counting down the days … for weeks. The 11-year-old and the 9-year-old have physical monthly hanging calendars in their rooms, each with a Sharpie nearby for applying sturdy “X”s each day.

But the 40- and 42-year-olds have been staring at their online calendars more and more each day, too, as the seemingly unreachable “June 4th” square draws closer.

Recently, there have been lots of hot dogs. Lots of mac and cheese. Popcorn and nachos, and carrot sticks to stave off the guilt. Lots of indulging. Placating. Surviving.

But it’s almost over. And I have high hopes for the summer and for the next school year. I’m ready to quit surviving and start thriving again. I’m ready for culinary excitement again. And for me, that means projects.

I get that most folks don’t want to spend 72 hours making a traditional cassoulet. You gotta source all that stuff, fabricate, then dry-brine then confit duck legs, soak beans, put it all together, and hope for the best.

It’s a lot. But it’s a project.

And just like I love the feeling of digging for treasure, putting in that work when I shell pistachios, crawfish, and shrimp, I feel like the effort that goes into a recipe project is something you can taste on the other end.

So here we are with the pork chops. Inspired by a rib-cooking process I first experienced at one of my favorite Twin Cities restaurants, Travail, this recipe brines, then sous vides, then grills the humble pork chop, turning it into a more tender, more flavorful, more elevated version of itself. Yeah, it’s three steps. It takes a while. But it’s also not chewy and overcooked.

If you like a project, give it a shot.

Active Time: 1 hour

Total Time: 8 hours

Brine

4 cups orange juice
4 cups water
1 cup salt*
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1 TB Accent**
Ice***

Pork Chops

8 (3/4” thick) bone-in pork chops (3 1/2 to 4 lbs)
1 stick unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

Serving Suggestions

4 cups prepared grits

4 grilled corn cobs, kernels removed

2 cups halved cherry tomatoes

2 cups steamed sugar snap peas

2 radishes, thinly sliced

1/4 cup fresh chives, cut in 1 1/2” pieces

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves

*I used kosher salt, but granulated is fine.

**If for some irrational reason, you are anti-MSG, you can leave this out, but I will judge you.

***You can just use water, but as I am lazy and impatient, I use ice since it’s the fastest way to get protein into a brine. The brine needs to be cold before you add the meat. If you use water, refrigerate the brine until cold before adding the pork chops.

Directions

In 2- to 4-quart saucepan, combine all brine ingredients except ice. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil 5 to 7 minutes, stirring often, until salt and sugar dissolve. Watch carefully, as the mixture can boil over in a smaller pan.

Pour into a heatproof bowl or Cambro. Add enough ice to make 1 gallon of brine. Stir until mixture is cold. Add pork chops; cover and refrigerate 3 hours.

Be sure to pick a container that can hold the gallon of brine PLUS the pork chops. Bonus points for containers that clearly mark the capacity, like this Cambro. Cambros are the best. I’m always finding new uses for them. If you don’t have a restaurant supply store nearby, you can purchase them online at Amazon or restaurant supply stores like webstaurantstore.com.

Remove pork chops from brine; discard brine. Pat pork chops dry. Place 2 pork chops in each of 4 (8x12”) 1-quart sous vide bags. Place 1 tablespoon of butter on each pork chop. Seal bags and cook sous vide at 132 degrees for 3 hours.

If your sous vide bags are textured on one side like mine, put the pretty side of the pork chop on the untextured side; put the butter on the less pretty side of the chop, facing the textured side. The butter will leave a little divot in the chop during the sous vide process, so make it nice by thinking of how it will look once it comes out of the bag.

This is a Mellow, which is a countertop sous vide machine. Stick-style immersion circulators like Anova work just as well.

Heat gas or charcoal grill to medium-high (about 375 degrees). Remove pork chops from bags and place directly on hot grill. Cook 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning 90 degrees after 1 minute on first side to create grill marks if desired.

Serve with grits, grilled corn, tomatoes, peas, radishes, chives and thyme.