Defy Your Kin: Spoonbread, Not Dressing

Spoonbread commands a spotlight and defies its kin – cornbread, dressing, cheese grits, corn pudding – in categorization.

Is it a bread? A casserole? Labels, schmabels. It is a lovely, fluffy, and creamy side dish, yet it’s hard not to view it as the star in any meal in which it’s served.

If you are planning on having turkey for Thanksgiving, do you really need a big pan of dressing, too? Not necessarily. Substitute spoonbread for the dressing, especially if you are pressed for time.

Though your mother-in-law may get miffed, tell her you are going to start a new tradition. Pour a strong one then sit back and wait for the fireworks.

Spoonbread is easier to make than cornbread dressing. It takes much less time to prepare, as dressing requires more time to make a bold and savory chicken broth. Simply, spoonbread is a big bang for the bite, easy to stir up and bake for a Sunday dinner or a special occasion.

You could argue that spoonbread is more closely related to cheese grits, but it is bready like cornbread and so moist that it requires a spoon to eat, thus, its name, though the origin of the name has been the subject of at least one debate.

While many point to the need to eat spoonbread with a spoon as giving rise to its name, according to Kelly Brant, writing in the Arkansas Gazette, Native Americans prepared a dish called “supawn” or “suppone,” a porridge made with ground corn, which could be the genesis of the dish and its name. Kelly gives a great all-around history and some recipes. Check her article out, if you have time. 

https://www.arkansasonline.com/news/2014/oct/22/spoonbread-splendid-20141022/

The main note I would give about spoonbread is to keep it simple. I found many great variations, and I got lost in recipes that add heavy ingredients that make it weighty with flavor distractions. It’s much better appreciated for its airy texture, and often onions, peppers, and garlic frame the standard Southern flavor profile just right.

If you are willing to sacrifice a little fluffiness for extra flavor, bacon, chives, and shoepeg corn could be great additions. One version I tried included chorizo, and it came out flat. So, be careful if adding meat and watch the total amount of fat going into the recipe. You don’t want the leavening agents to fight too hard for lift.

I used baking powder even though I was also using self-rising cornmeal. It worked out just fine. If you want some extra fluffiness, you can separate the egg whites from the yolks. Whip the whites until they peak then fold them last into the batter. Also, you can use either whole milk or buttermilk, the latter adding a layer of background flavor that many will find appealing, but buttermilk does have less fat, so that substitution can impact the texture. 

The recipe that I tried that had a great balance of flavor and the perfect texture is one I found in Texas Monthly Magazine.

https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/jalapeno-jack-spoon-bread/

So, when you are planning out your Thanksgiving menu, embrace change! Be brave! Defy your kin …

Jalapeño Jack Spoonbread

4 TB butter, divided
1 large onion, diced
2 medium or 1 large shallot, diced
2 fresh medium jalapeños, diced (seeds and ribs removed if desired)
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 cups whole milk
1 cup self-rising cornmeal
2 tsp baking powder
4 large eggs
4 oz. pepper Jack cheese, shredded
1/4 tsp salt

Directions

In large skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add onions, shallots, and jalapeños and cook, stirring often, 7 to 9 minutes, or until soft. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute longer, until softened. Remove from heat.

In a heavy saucepan, slowly bring milk to a boil over medium heat stirring often to avoid curdling. Slowly stir in cornmeal until mixture is the consistency of a heavy paste. If it’s too thick to stir, add a splash of milk and continue stirring. Remove from heat and allow to cool for a few minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Stir butter and baking powder into cornmeal mixture. Add eggs 1 at a time to cornmeal mixture and stir until completely mixed. Fold onion mixture into cornmeal mixture, along with cheese and salt.

Pour into greased 2-quart baking or casserole dish. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until firm and golden.