No Need to Hurry in Ouray

When one thinks of Colorado, many images come to mind:  the Rocky Mountains, outdoor activities for days, and snow in the Winter and lovely temperatures all Summer long.  One also thinks of the fabulous and famous places to visit like Aspen and Telluride with all their luxurious ways of life, celebrity residents, and (at times) ridiculously crowded streets.  I love those places, too, for many reasons, but I am also fond of some of the not so oversaturated towns in Colorado.  Places where I can close my eyes and hear my thoughts, and smell that sweet air. One such place is Ouray.

With a population of less than 1000 people, Ouray is located on the other side of the mountain from Telluride, and tends to be a more friendly and welcoming place than some of the more “glamorous” places in the State.  The vibe is chill, the climate is perfect and, not for nothing, it is often referred to as the “Switzerland of America.”  People who know about Ouray love Ouray and cannot wait to return.

Because it is a quiet and unassuming place, do not expect any opulent hotels with room service and bell hops.  You will probably be toting your own luggage upstairs in old, historic buildings with no elevators that probably have been around since the days of Doc Holliday and Big Nosed Kate.  While not always the most comfortable, you cannot beat if for charm.

Owing to this lack of modernity, I was immediately scouring Main Street for dinner options.  I may be charmed by the views and architecture, but I still like to eat well.  That is when the hubs and I stumbled upon Bon Ton.

Offering both indoor and outdoor seating, always opt for the outdoor seating.  We have eaten here several times, dined both inside and out, and there is no comparison.  You will be staring at breathtaking views of the mountains in which the town is nestled.  A bottle of Barolo to go with their old-school Italian cuisine (eating tasty Italian cuisine is like a wearing a little black dress – you just cannot go wrong) while taking in the views is almost too much goodness to handle.  The ricotta stuffed tortellini are always a winner.

As for lunch and other dining needs, just walk up and down Main Street (warning:  the town is on an incline, so it will be easy to get winded walking Main), and you will find charming cafes and casual eateries for all your dining needs, but Bon Ton is close to my heart, as is Ouray.

www.visitouray.com

bonton-restaurant.com

Primed and Ready for My Steak

Porchandparlor.com

I have been going to Memphis for fun, leisurely weekends more years than I can count.  As a student at Ole Miss, it was a mere hour away, and many a (lost) weekend has taken place on famous Beale Street.  

Now, in my more “mature” years, I live about an hour and a half away, and that type of weekend holds no appeal to me, but Memphis is a great city that always appeals to me.  It is wonderful to visit when meeting up with old friends, shopping, and visiting historical landmarks.  First and foremost, is that there seem to always be new eateries to sample in addition to my tried-and-true favorite dining establishments.

My most recent sampling is a gem of a place called Porch and Parlor.  It first came to my attention when a fellow gym rat walked over to me one day in the midst of a sweaty cardio session and said to me, “You and your husband are into good food.  Let me tell you about a place I just tried with my husband.”  

I cataloged it in my head immediately (because my life revolves around food). Still, my antennae really perked up when a mere two weeks later, a completely unrelated person to my gym buddy essentially said the same thing to me, so I told the hubs, “It’s time to go to Memphis again for a night out.”

Located in Overton Square (a little bit of a hipster area), Porch and Parlor offers casual outdoor porch dining, or you can enjoy indoor dining in a lush and luxurious dining room.  Our weekend was in the middle of summer in Memphis, so we opted for the indoor dining option, as fine cuisine is best enjoyed when your clothes are not sticking to your back from the oppressive heat and humidity.

Being the obsessive-compulsive person to which I am prone, I had perused the menu several times before stepping into the restaurant and was firmly set on one of their fish dishes.  However, after our extremely professional and knowledgeable server walked us through the menu, it was clear this was a place where one goes to eat steak.  At a place such as this, I always trust the server because I know I will not be led astray.

Porch and Parlor are known for their “Prime” cuts of beef and extensive “Wagyu” selections.  Their signature appetizer is devilled eggs topped with a sizeable chunk of Wagyu.  That was a little too decadent and heavy sounding for this foodie to choose as a “starter,” so I opted to start with the Fresh Artichoke Soup, a creamy blend that included brie and crispy shallot.  It is not low in calories, but it was divine.  

My husband is a French onion soup fiend (if it is on a menu, rest assured he will order it), so he ordered it and said it was one of the best he had ever eaten.  After sampling his parmesan tuile, I was inclined to agree with him.

As for the steak, we ordered incredibly well-marbled ribeye, which was perfectly seasoned and beyond succulent.  For this carboholic, though, the Loaded Parlor Potatoes stole the show.  Layered with scalloped potatoes, several types of cheese, bacon, onions, and chives, I could eat this for breakfast every day of my life and not feel even the least bit bad about it. 

The Petite Syrah paired with our steaks really enhanced everything on the table.  My only disappointment was that I had no capacity left for dessert (perhaps that was a hidden blessing).

I highly recommend this place to fine diners everywhere, particularly those interested in elevated steakhouse experiences.  

This place does not miss.

Devilishly Delicious Chocolate Cake

I will forever be grateful for the gracious sharing of knowledge and enthusiasm for food that I experienced during my externship for culinary school. Though the restaurant closed a few years ago and has been replaced by a fun and creative new Mexican-Korean fusion joint, I will forever cherish all of the people, techniques and tastes from that time. 

Lucia’s was a little farm-to-table restaurant with a weekly rotating menu in the Uptown neighborhood of Minneapolis. It boasted a fine dining restaurant, a bar and a cute little to-go area where you could pick up meals and treats that were elevated without feeling fussy. There was vegan chili that you could spike with housemade habanero jelly (folded into sour cream if you were down with dairy), frittatas filled with the best local veggies and cheese and these crispy bottomed, fluffy-topped individual pizzas dolloped with beautiful red sauce and whatever sounded delicious to us that day. 

I am no baker, but I was lucky enough to work for a week with the bread bakers and pastry chefs while I was there,  and of course I stole all of their recipes before I left! I still don’t bake much now, but this too-good-to-be-real cake is worth breaking out the cake pans and cooling racks. 

Devil’s Food Cake

Makes 1 three-layer cake (16 servings)

Cake Ingredients

3 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup cocoa powder
2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
2 cups cold water
1 cup vegetable oil
1 TB vanilla
3 tablespoons dark chocolate chips

Cake Directions

Heat oven to 350°F. Spray bottoms of 3 (9-inch) round cake pans with cooking spray. Cut three parchment rounds to fit cake pans, place in pans and generously spray bottoms and sides of pans with cooking spray.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk in water, oil and vanilla. Divide among the 3 prepared pans. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon chocolate chips evenly over each pan. 

Bake 15 to 20 minutes, until toothpick inserted in center of each cake comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes in pans. Run palette knife around edges of pans. Place parchment paper on top of cooling racks and place parchment-side down on top of pans. Invert and release cakes from pans. Cool completely.

Frosting Ingredients

1 lb salted butter, softened
8 cups powdered sugar
1 2/3 cups cocoa powder
1 TB vanilla
1-3 TB milk
Shaved white chocolate, optional

Frosting Directions

In stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, beat butter on medium-low until smooth. Add 4 cups of the powdered sugar and the cocoa. Beat on low until incorporated. Add remaining 4 cups powdered sugar and vanilla and beat on low until incorporated, then increase to medium-high until creamy. Add milk a little at a time until very soft, creamy and completely combined. The mixture should be spreadable.

Finishing

Place one cake layer on serving plate. Spread 1/4 of the frosting on center of cake layer, leaving about 1-inch border (the frosting will spread out after all layers are added). Repeat with remaining two layers. Use remaining frosting to frost sides of cake as well. Dip a large metal spatula in very hot water to smooth the frosting on top and sides. You may have a bit of frosting leftover. If desired, top with white chocolate shavings while the frosting is still wet.

Refrigerate uncovered at least two hours before cutting. Once the icing sets up, cover with plastic wrap and keep refrigerated, up to a week.

At the Junction of Nature and Fine Dining

I have been lucky enough to take part in many wonderful meals in my adult lifetime, but there are only a handful times I can recall in which I leaned back at the end of the meal and said “that was a beautiful meal.”  As is usually the case when this has occurred, it is utterly unexpected.  26 on Rood in Grand Junction, Colorado, is one such place worthy of that praise.

En route to Aspen, my first time visiting Grand Junction was in the middle of July, and I was stunned by how hot and dry it was.  I was like “hello, I thought it is supposed to be cool weather in the mountains?”  That was when my husband explained to me Grand Junction is a major city intersecting the Colorado River and Gunnison River and encapsulated by the Grand Mesa.  It is protected from normal arctic air masses, so temperatures in Grand Junction stay a few degrees warmer than most of the rest of Colorado.

The foodie that resides deep in my soul immediately began looking for interesting places to eat, and all I saw was miles of chain restaurants.  I thought that was going to be it as far as dining options were concerned.  However, when we returned to Grand Junction the following summer (it is a major hub one goes through almost always when traveling through Colorado), I dug deeper and soon learned I was in Colorado wine country with beautiful scenery, and there were definitely some delectable dining options at our disposal.  That is when I stumbled upon 626 on Rood.

This little oasis is a wine bar and offers seasonal dining menus, so it is never the same menu when we return but is always, always, always, top notch.  The wine menu is diverse and voluminous.  One of the owners takes such care and attention to the wine selection that she takes frequent trips to Europe to learn and stock up the restaurant’s wine cellar.  Personally, I am partial to their wine flights.

As for the food, prepare to have your palate dazzled.  The proprietors grow their own herbs in the garden connected to the establishment, and everything tastes fresh.  Most recent favorites have included a Caesar salad with tofu croutons, Black Angus beef tenderloin with pomme puree and mushroom ragout, the 626 almond financier cake (a true original!), and the best salmon I have ever tasted – miso and couscous crusted to perfection.  In short, 626 on Rood would be considered sensational no matter what city into which it would be dropped.

I learned from those first few trips to Grand Junction that in my fervor to get to some of those more well-known and fancier towns, I was missing out on what was right in front of me – a very cool, bustling town just waiting to feed me.  Lesson learned.

Pimiento Cheese Mashed Potatoes

Folks have their ways of cooking things, and there are often dishes they dare not vary. From cornbread recipes and secret formulas for comeback sauce, change can be difficult for the home cook.

The husband and I decided to join one of those meal kit delivery services. After the introductory price wears off, the sticker shock can become daunting, but there were many great positives about the experience.

Really, having a batch of ingredients, some out of the ordinary, or not what is typically available to us in a rural Mississippi town, was a pleasant experience, but the best thing was stepping away from my ordinary Southern fare and learning to make some simple sauces.

It made me a better cook.

So, when we got the ingredients and the recipe for pimiento mashed potatoes, I had a “duh” moment of “why have I never thought of that before?”

Two favorite dishes begging for a fusion.

When it comes to mashed potatoes, I did learn long ago not to overdo the dairy – whether butter, milk, cream, cheese, or sour cream. There can be too much of a good thing. Adding too much dairy fat to all that boiled starch makes the dish seize up, become less appealing texturally, and drowns out the natural, earthy taste of the potatoes.

The cure? Save at least a cup of the salted potato water, and you can mash and thin the potatoes into a beautiful, silky texture, or with some remaining lumps, but easily to your exact liking.

Trust me. This dish doesn’t even need butter. The flavors are that great.

A note about pimientos – if they do not sell them wherever you live (and they can be hell to find in Wally World), you may substitute jarred, roasted red bell peppers. They aren’t exactly the same thing as pimientos, but they are close enough in flavor and texture to be interchangeable.

And grate your cheese, please! It makes all the difference in the world. As Maggie has pointed out on this blog, whatever they use to keep shredded cheese shredded is kind of creepy and also keeps it from being less melty.

Enjoy …

Pimiento Cheese Mashed Potatoes

1 1/2 lbs. small golden potatoes, medium dice
4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
Olive oil, drizzle
4 oz. jar pimientos or roasted red bell peppers, drained and diced
1/2 tsp onion powder
4 oz. white cheddar cheese (grated from an 8 oz. block)
4 scallions, sliced, green parts only (optional for garnish)
Butter (optional topping)

Directions

1. Salt enough water to cover the potatoes in a deep pot. Add smashed garlic. Boil for 16-18 minutes or until potatoes are fork tender.

2. Reserve 1 cup of the potato water then drain potatoes and return to the pot. Drizzle with olive oil.

3. Mash the potatoes with a potato masher. Add the pimentos, onion powder, and a half cup of the reserved water. Stir well.

4. Add the cheese and stir to incorporate. Add additional reserved water, as needed, and stir to your desired texture. 

5. Salt and pepper to taste. Top potatoes with scallions and/or butter, though the potatoes are fine without either.

That Cheese Thing

When I’m invited to someone’s house here in Minnesota, they often ask if I’ll bring “that cheese thing.” The Minnesotans don’t even know what pimiento cheese is, but after they try it, the vast majority can’t get enough.

But since they didn’t grow up with it, they also can’t really appreciate the nuances of different styles of pimiento cheese available. Mine has no cream cheese. I have nothing against cream cheese generally, but I want more flavor and adding cream cheese to anything tends to dull the flavors of the other ingredients in a recipe. To get “that cheese thing” creamy and break down the shreds of the cheese, I grate my own cheese (in the food processor; I’m not a masochist) then beat it with other ingredients in the stand mixer until it’s a spreadable delight.

I like pimiento cheese that’s high in acid to cut through the fattiness of the cheese and mayo, and I like bright and smoky heat so that’s why there are jalapeños as well as cayenne and smoked paprika. If you don’t want it quite so tart, add the lemon juice a little at a time until you’re happy with the balance of the acid. And if you can’t take the heat, leave out the cayenne or jalapeños, or both. Also, if you’ve got vegetarians to consider, swap out the Worcestershire for 1 teaspoon reduced-sodium soy sauce and leave out the salt. Play around with it and make it your own.

The Minnesotans like it with Ritz crackers. That’s fine but I like Wheat Thins, as the cracker is just a vehicle for that sweet, sweet “cheese thing.”

Pimiento Cheese

Makes about 5 cups

Ingredients

1 lb grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese*
4 oz grated Colby cheese
1 cup mayonnaise
2 TB lemon juice
1 TB Dijon mustard
1 TB Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
1/4 tsp salt
1 (4 oz) jar diced pimientos, drained
3 green onions, finely chopped
2 TB chopped pickled jalapeños or other hot pickled peppers, such as pepperoncini
1 TB juice from pickled peppers

Combine cheeses, mayonnaise, lemon juice, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne, paprika and salt in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat mixture on low until thoroughly combined. Increase speed to medium and beat 5-7 minutes, until mixture becomes creamy.

Add pimientos, green onions, jalapeños and their juice. Beat mixture on low just until combined.

*Technically you can use whatever cheese you’d like. As previously mentioned, some heathens even add cream cheese. But I like a mixture of mostly extra sharp cheddar for flavor, plus some colby to add a little soft meltiness. Grate your own cheese. It’s better. Wood is often an ingredient in pre-shredded cheese. Google it if you don’t believe me.

Miss Vetra’s Strawberry Cake

Joyous summertime in the South. The sounds of tree frogs chirping, cicadas humming and the gentle buzzing of the streetlights illuminating the path home after a long day of play. The smells of sticky honeysuckle, rain-soaked streets on a hot, humid day, and tomato vines in bloom. The taste of ice-cold watermelon; fresh shucked corn, milky and sweet; and the intoxicating aroma of sugar soaked strawberry cakes fresh out of my grandmother's oven.

Layer cakes are a “thing” in the south; they are meant to shock and awe, to win the crowd. You had best believe that if Miss Martha June shows up to the family gathering with a layer cake that she is throwing down the gauntlet and she did not come to play.

Most families in the south make layer cakes which are specific to not only the region but to their families. To make a layer cake is not a simple thing; it takes patience, a certain level of skill and will power. Also, the recipes are almost always guarded and held within the family.

It is a badge of honor if you were chosen, the one who not only makes the cakes, but guards the recipe and decides early on who will be the next family member to carry on the tradition. My grandmother, Miss Vetra, chose me to be the keeper of the family recipes.

Strawberry layer cake was a cake that Miss Vetra was known for, not only within our family but within our community. Many a birthday, church picnic or club meeting were graced with Miss Vetra, snap purse in one hand and strawberry cake filled Tupperware cake carrier in the other hand, smiling and loving like she did. Miss Vetra was a boss and she did not come to play most days, but she was never boastful or mean–a proud and strong southern woman who knew she made some damn good cake.

As a child I was pretty much in tow to all of these events and unbeknownst to me was being trained as a strong southern woman and taught to make this cake as the keeper of tradition, which makes the information that I almost lost this recipe downright shocking. But alas, it's true, which is why I have decided to share this recipe with all of you, in the spirit of family and tradition and the memory of Miss Vetra. It will not be lost, but loved and carried down with the generations as you make memories within your own families and share in the communion of friends.

This cake hits all the notes of an old school southern strawberry cake. During the period of literal years that I had misplaced my grandmother's handwritten recipe, I searched low and high for another recipe that had not only the taste but the color and texture of the strawberry cake I longed for from my childhood. I could never find one, some were better than others but none were the same. Upon finding her recipe I laughed out loud reading the ingredients–none of the things as a chef that I thought should be in the cake were actually in the cake. Never in a million years would I have known that she was using a lemon cake mix as the base, because that is crazy! But sometimes crazy is what makes the world go round and just what we need.

This cake is neon pink on the inside, sticks to your fork moist, exploding with strawberry flavor and so sweet that you will be running through the house barefoot screaming whoopee.

It's genius and it's perfect. Who would have known that sweet, in-the church-every-Sunday-Miss Vetra was actually practicing witchcraft in her kitchen.

Well played, Miss Vetra, and thank you.

Love, Dixie Belle.

Miss Vetra’s Southern Strawberry Cake

Makes 10 Servings

Cake Ingredients

1 box Duncan Hines lemon cake mix
3 TB all-purpose flour
1 (6 oz.) package strawberry Jello mix
¼ tsp salt
½ cup water (room temperature)
½ cup vegetable oil
4 large eggs, beaten
1 (16 oz.) package frozen strawberries, thawed and drained

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350°F.. Lightly spray two 9-inch round cake pans with cooking spray.

In a large bowl, whisk together cake mix, flour, Jello mix and salt. Add water, oil and eggs and whisk until batter is smooth. Do not over mix.

Fold in strawberries until evenly incorporated.

Divide mix evenly between prepared pans.

Bake for 30-35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Let cool for 1 hour on a cooling rack.

Frosting Ingredients

¾ cup butter, softened
¼ cup of shortening
3 cups powdered sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ cup strawberry jam
1 drop red food coloring

Directions

Using a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, cream butter and shortening on medium speed until smooth. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides. Add 2 cups of powdered sugar and vanilla. Turn the mixer on low and blend until sugar is incorporated. Scrape down the sides again and add 1 more cup of the powdered sugar, jam and food coloring and turn the mixer on low and whip 3-4 minutes or until light and fluffy.

Frosting the cake instructions:

Apply a layer of frosting in between layers of cake and then crumb frost the cake with a thin layer of frosting. Place cake in the fridge for 30 mins-1 hour to let the frosting set up.

Remove and using a spatula, apply remaining frosting to sides and top as desired.

Notes

This is a very sweet cake, so feel free to adjust the amount of sugar in the frosting to your personal taste. If you prefer it less sweet, taste after adding the two cups of sugar and continue to add more sugar gradually until it hits the desired sweetness.

Crumb frosting simply means applying a thin layer of frosting to the cake which collects most of the crumbs and gives you a smooth base to frost. After the crumb coat sets up, the remaining frosting will go on smoothly, resulting in a cleaner cake.

It’s Corn!

🎶🎵 It’s the most wonderful time of the year! 🎶🎵 That’s right, it’s not Christmas; it’s corn season! I do realize that most Americans are something like 70% corn at this point since we turn field corn into Frankenstein-ed powders, sugars and gels to use for thickeners and candy and sports drinks. But I am talking about sweet corn. Beautiful, seasonal sweet corn piled high in markets and groceries—it’s just waiting to be shucked and cooked and turned into your favorite corn creation, or just slathered with butter, sprinkled with salt and eaten straight off the cob.

After trying every possible method of shucking corn, I have decided grilling in the husk is the best technique. It’s easy, slightly smoky and delicious. After you grill the corn, the silk comes off cleanly and effortlessly. I thought I’d do a fun riff on elote, swapping in some favorite southern ingredients for their classic Mexican counterparts, but feel free to just add butter and salt and enjoy how easy it was to shuck that corn after cooking it!

Southern-Style Elote

Serves 4

Ingredients

1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1/4 tsp cayenne
4 ears of corn, husks on
2 TB mayonnaise
1/2 cup shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese
1/4 cup barbecue sauce, if desired
2 TB minced green onions
1 lemon, cut into wedges

Build a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to high (400 to 450°F). Combine smoked paprika and cayenne in a small bowl.

Grill corn, turning occasionally, until cooked through and charred on all sides, about 20 minutes. Remove from grill. Reduce heat to medium (325 to 375°F).

Wearing gloves, shuck the hot corn and break off the husk, or leave husk attached as a handle if desired. Using heatproof brush, brush each cob on all sides with mayonnaise. Place on a small grill-safe pan (I used a quarter sheet pan) and sprinkle tops with cheese and paprika mixture.

Place the pan on the grill and close the lid for 2 to 3 minutes, checking often, just long enough to melt the cheese.

Drizzle with barbecue sauce, if using, sprinkle with green onions and serve with lemon wedges.

Make Mine A Manhattan

Cocktail hour is sacred in our house. There comes a point in the day when it is time to finally stop and (try) to forget about the stressors in our lives. At the end of a particularly long and grueling day, nothing gives me that soothing, slightly burning feeling, which blissfully blurs the edges, like a Manhattan. Very Mad Men of us, no?

It is debated how and for whom the Manhattan cocktail originated, but most historians agree it was created in the Manhattan area of New York City and dates back as early as the 1870s.

There are many variations on how to properly mix a Manhattan. Some use bourbon. Others like Canadian whiskey, the brown liquor of choice during Prohibition when that could be obtained. Some prefer their Manhattan to be sweet with cherry juice poured into the mix while others like a lemon garnish for a little bit of tartness. Some drink it straight up without ice, but I like mine icy cold. However, one prefers their Manhattan, it is always a cocktail for those who like to give a nod to that old New York cocktail hour.

Our recipe is made by my in-house mixologist (the hubs), and it is foolproof. Try it one day when a weaker drink just will not do.

• 2 Shots Bourbon (Woodford Reserve is our go-to)

• 1 Shot Sweet Vermouth

• 1 Maraschino Cherry (slightly muddled)

• 4 Dashes of Orange Bitters

Piccata Perfection: What to Eat When Winter Just Won’t End

Once Valentine’s Day is over each year, I’m usually at the point in winter where I am so over it I have to mentally prepare myself for tiny physical outdoor tasks, like taking out the recycling or getting the paper. Even if it isn’t a mind-numbingly cold, negative-30-degrees-before-the-windchill-style Minnesota day, it’s still really, really cold. If you don’t live somewhere with punishingly cold winters, the heavy braises and slow-cooker cold weather meals still start to get old and make you crave the fresh, lighter spring fare that somehow seems so far away. So if you’re sick of burying yourself underneath a metaphorical weighted blanket woven out of heavy food and streaming services, never fear – there is a halfway point between slow-cooker chili and grilled asparagus. An uplifting, pre-spring midpoint to bridge the gap.

Enter piccata. With a bright and briny injection of citrusy sauce, it stirs your senses when it seems like winter will last forever. It’s so easy. It uses ingredients you either already keep, or should keep, on-hand. And it’s still fried. But like, barely. Compared to the other forms of frying, this version is just above saute and just below pan-fry in amount of fat required. There is minimal mess and splattering, with maximum crispiness. And then the lemon, and the capers and the parsley! So bright, so piquant, so fresh! 

One note: I brined my chicken breasts before patting dry and applying the mallet. So I did not actually add salt. But for ease and time-saving, I’m writing this as if I did not brine and, instead, I included salt in the ingredient list. So brine, or don’t, you do you. Let’s make it!

Chicken Piccata

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 large lemons, zested* and juiced
1 TB Dijon mustard
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup capers, patted dry
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (6 to 8 oz each)
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup flat-leaf Italian parsley leaves, chopped

Directions

Heat oven to 200ºF. Line sheet pan with parchment paper.

In small bowl, whisk lemon juice, mustard and garlic. Stir in capers.

Place chicken breasts on large cutting board, cover with a large piece of plastic wrap, then pound the smooth side of a meat mallet (or the side of a can of tomatoes or beans) until about 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick. Discard plastic and season chicken with salt and pepper.

Place flour in large shallow bowl or pie plate. Add chicken breasts, one at a time and toss to coat. Tap to remove excess flour. 

In large skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Add two of the chicken breasts and cook 4 minutes on first side, then turn, reduce heat to medium and cook 4 to 6 minutes longer, until cooked through (at least 165ºF in center). Transfer to prepared sheet pan and place in oven.

Melt remaining 3 tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat. Add remaining chicken breasts and cook 4 minutes on first side, then turn, reduce heat to medium and cook 4 to 6 minutes longer, until cooked through (at least 165ºF in center). Add to sheet pan in oven. 

Add wine to skillet and bring to a boil, scraping pan with spatula to collect fond. Immediately stir in lemon juice mixture and return to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring often, 1 to 2 minutes, or until slightly reduced. Remove from heat; stir in parsley.

Top each chicken breast with a generous amount of the pan sauce. Top with lemon zest.

*For the prettiest zest, use a traditional citrus zester or even a channel knife. A microplane is a great tool, but creates smaller, less desirable zest for garnishing. Two large lemons should make 1/2 cup. Measure lemon juice into a measuring cup. If less than 1/2 cup, add more lemon juice, dry white wine, cider vinegar or water.

I served the piccata with roasted new potatoes with dill, yellow beets with goat cheese and crispy beet greens, but of course it’s great with a simple pasta tossed in butter or olive oil and Parmesan cheese.

Chicken Piccata, roasted new potatoes with dill, yellow beets with goat cheese and crispy beet greens

Christmas Cookies: Baking Ordinary Into Extraordinary

We love this time of year when, for a few weeks at least, we get to relax our dietary standards and enjoy a little extra sweetness in our lives.

Whether it’s baking with the kids to fill their time off from school, for a cookie exchange to surprise your friends and family with individualized presents, or to impress Santa on Christmas Eve while he struggles to assemble little George’s bike – cookies become common around many houses during the holidays.

But just because they are ordinary doesn’t mean that they can’t be extraordinary.

We here at GTC love to collaborate during this time, as well. We celebrate our diversity as cooks, each with her own approach and strengths. This year, we set out to find and share some delicious cookie recipes with you.

From all of our houses to yours, we wish you a Merry Christmas and a very happy holiday.

---

 FROM DIXIE

Miss Vetra’s Old-Fashioned Fruitcake Cookies

My grandmother made Christmas cookies and candies beginning the week after Thanksgiving and continuing all the way through December until Christmas Eve. As much as I remember my own joy as the house began to fill with the warm smells of cinnamon and chocolate, I remember the joy of our friends, family, and neighbors as she handed out small tins filled with divinity, gingerbread, frosted sugar cookies, and fruitcake cookies to name a few. The mix would vary from year to year, but these four were always included.

So much of my modern-day adult Christmas celebration is filled with nostalgia and memories from my childhood. Nothing screams nostalgia like Miss Vetra’s Fruitcake cookies filled with those delightful neon-colored candied fruits, winter nuts, and a little booze.

Fruitcake, in general, gets a really bad rap—most people have never had a really good, old-fashioned liquor-soaked fruitcake made by a delightful Methodist grandma.

My grandmother’s cookies embody all of the best things about fruitcake but in cookie form.

Miss Vetra’s Old-Fashioned Fruitcake Cookies

Makes 2 dozen cookies

1⅔ cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp salt
½ tsp cloves
½ tsp baking soda
½ cup butter, room temperature
½ cup Crisco
1 cup light brown sugar, packed
1 large egg, beaten, room temperature
1 TB orange marmalade
1 TB brandy or dark rum
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 ½ cups candied fruit cake mix
½ cup chopped dates
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 cup chopped pecans
24 pecan halves

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line 2 large cookie sheets with parchment paper.

In medium bowl, sift together flour, cinnamon, salt, cloves and baking soda. Set aside.

In large bowl or bowl of stand mixer* bowl cream together butter, Crisco and brown sugar until light and fluffy, roughly 5-7 minutes. 

Add in egg, orange marmalade, brandy and vanilla; mix on low until just combined.

Slowly add in flour mixture to creamed butter mixture, one cup at a time on lowest speed until completely incorporated.

Stir in candied fruit mixture and chopped walnuts by hand, using a wooden spoon.

On cookie sheets,  drop tablespoons of cookie dough mix in 3 by 4 pattern. Press one pecan half in the center of each cookie.

Bake for 15-17 minutes until cookies are golden brown. Cooking times may vary slightly depending on your oven.  Remove from oven and transfer to a wire cooling rack using a spatula, let sit for 30 minutes before serving.

*I prefer a handheld mixer, but a stand mixer works just fine.

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FROM MAGGIE

Chocolate Cookies with Crushed Peppermint

We have arrived at the season of nostalgia, and I am happy to swim in it—especially if it’s filled with sugar and chocolate! The sea salt chocolate cookies at Lucia’s in Linden Hills, where I did my externship in Minneapolis, were one of my favorite things from the bakery. The triple chocolate cake and pumpkin bars were nothing to turn your nose up at either, but we can talk about those another time.

Now that Lucia’s has closed, I have to make the cookies myself. It’s cool, though; they’re easy enough, even for non-bakers like myself! Since it’s the holiday season, I thought I’d mix it up and replace the flaky sea salt topping with crushed peppermint. Just put a few hard peppermint candies or mini candy canes in a freezer-weight zip-top bag and hit ’em a few times with the smooth side of a meat mallet or a heavy rolling pin. Don’t over-crush, though – you wanna see that red and white stripe in the bits of candy topping.

Here’s to reveling in all that nostalgia and eating sweets with abandon! Happy holidays!

Chocolate Cookies with Crushed Peppermint

Makes 4 dozen cookies

Cookies

1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
12 TB unsalted butter, softened
2/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp flaky sea salt (such as Maldon brand)
1 tsp vanilla extract
5 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Topping

1/4 cup water
3 TB sugar
2 TB crushed hard peppermint candy

Into medium bowl, sift flour, cocoa, and baking soda.  

Place butter in bowl of stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; beat on medium speed 2 to 4 minutes, until very soft. Add brown sugar, the 1/4 cup sugar, the 1/2 tsp salt and vanilla. Beat 2 to 4 minutes longer on medium speed, until creamy.

Add flour mixture. Mix on low speed just until incorporated. Dn not overmix. Remove bowl from mixer and fold in chopped chocolate.

Turn the dough out onto a piece of parchment paper. Divide dough in half; place one half of dough on another piece of parchment paper. Using paper to keep dough from sticking, roll each half of the dough into a 12-inch log. Roll up each log and place in freezer 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat oven to 325°F. Line two half sheet pans (18x13-inch rimmed baking sheets) with parchment paper. In small saucepan, make the simple syrup: combine water and 3 remaining TB sugar and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer 2 to 4 minutes, until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat; cool slightly.

Working with a sharp chef knife or bench scraper, slice each log into 24 rounds, reshaping dough as necessary. Place cookies in 4 by 6 pattern on pans, leaving 1 inch between each. 

Bake 12 minutes, rotating pans halfway through baking. Transfer pans to cooling racks and let cool at least 5 minutes.

Use pastry brush to "paint" cookies with the simple syrup, then sprinkle with crushed hard peppermint candy*.

* You can top the cookies with 2 TB flaky sea salt instead of the peppermint candy.

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FROM MARY MARGARET 

Santa’s Favorite Cookies

My husband’s greatest weakness is chocolate chip cookies, so I’m always sure to have these around on Christmas Eve for “Santa.” Here, I’ve tweaked the classic Toll House cookie recipe to include a few of his favorite things, including dark chocolate, craisins, and rolled oats.

Santa’s Favorite Cookies

Makes 8 dozen cookies

½ cup craisins
¾ cup brown sugar
¾ cup white sugar
1 cup shortening
2 eggs 
1 TB vanilla 
1 ½ cups flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp hot water 
2 cups rolled oats
1 package dark chocolate chips or chunks (12oz)
1 cup toasted, chopped pecans 

Preheat oven to 350°F. Line large cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Cover craisins in hot water to plump. 

In bowl of stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream sugars and shortening. Add eggs and vanilla, mix well. 

Sift flour into medium bowl; add salt. In small bowl, dissolve baking soda in hot water. Add flour mixture and dissolved baking soda to the mixture in stand mixer; mix on low speed until just combined. Add rolled oats, chocolate chips, drained craisins and pecans. Mix on low speed until incorporated

Place tablespoons of dough on prepared cookie sheets, spacing at least 1 inch apart. Bake in batches for 12 minutes. Remove while warm and cool on racks.

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FROM DEE

Nut-Free Linzer Cookies

As a person with nut allergies, I bake tons of cookies and treats that I never get to eat! Back in our active-duty days, the holidays were always an exciting blend of cultures and traditions. European friends introduced me to Linzer cookies. They were absolutely beautiful, and I was so sad that I couldn’t taste them because they were made with ground almonds or almond flour. 

So, I went looking for an alternative and found this recipe from Cathy Roma at whatshouldimakefor.com. Problem solved! The lemon zest can be doubled, and the raspberry and lemon are a match made in Heaven, and the two acids complement the rich buttery flavor of these cookies perfectly. I have also used apricot preserves just for another color on a cookie tray. Raspberry is traditional, but making your own traditions can be wonderful, too. This is a low-yield cookie (2 dozen completed cookies), but they are worth every minute of effort. Happy Holidays!

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FROM CAM

Gingersnaps

I am not much of a baker of sweet things. I can churn out rolls and loaves of bread, but my Kitchenaid must think it queer when I attach the flat beater and crank it up to make a batch of cookies. I love a good commercial gingersnap, so for this Christmas baking project, I chose the beloved, crispy and spicy cookie that so many people love. I found a great recipe from King Arthur flour.

I love the flavors here. The balance of ginger, cinnamon, and cloves is spot on. The ginger range is from 1 - 2 teaspoons, and I chose the more conservative 1 teaspoon, and it was plenty. I used solid vegetable shortening, as the recipe did not specify, and while the cookies came together, the batter was crumbly. I was worried it would impact the final product, but alas, they turned out perfectly moist. And I don't have any real baking tools - like a cookie scoop - but getting them to the 1-inch ball size wasn't difficult. You roll the balls in cinnamon sugar, and they flatten out when you cook them. I love, too, that you can choose between a softer cookie with a crispy exterior or the more common crisp-throughout version just by adding 2 minutes to the bake time.  

So, for some great flavor bang from what seems to be almost a no-fail recipe, give this one a try. And Merry Christmas!

Did Someone Say “Holiday Party?”

I absolutely love the Thanksgiving and Christmas holiday seasons. Always have. Always will. There is just something in the air this time of year, and there is nothing about it I do not enjoy. There is the decorating (both inside AND outside the house, of course), sending and receiving Christmas cards, and gift wrapping - even the spending of money does not bother me, as I find it enjoyable to select gifts for people who are special to me.

Bar none for me, however, are the holiday parties. What could be better than friends having an excuse to get together (in their fuzzy attire), eat, drink, and be merry? It is a beautiful thing. I love attending these kinds of parties, and I thoroughly enjoy hosting festive gatherings as well. Admittedly, hosting can be a daunting task, and it is easy to become overwhelmed, so the following are the 5 tips I always keep in mind when planning a successful holiday soiree.

1. A Little Décor Goes a Long Way – Decorating is not everyone’s cup of tea. I get it. If you are going to host a holiday party, though, make sure you put out a little effort into this department. Otherwise, what differentiates it from a regular dinner party or barbeque? If decorating is something you dread, something as simple as a few Poinsettia arrangements, a wreath on your front door, or some carefully scattered holly around the entertaining area of your home will give off that spirit of the holidays.

2. Make Sure That Bar Is Fully Stocked – The bar is always stocked in our house (a la Don Draper), but some never think of stockpiling spirits unless a special occasion is fast approaching. While it can be the most costly aspect of entertaining, it is essential. Keep in mind that everyone does not drink the same thing. You will need clear libations, whiskeys and bourbons, beer, red wine, and white wines, and it never hurts to have a little bubbly in the refrigerator. As an aside, note that not everyone may want an alcoholic beverage, so I ensure there are several kinds of sodas, iced tea, etc., on hand for those who prefer it.

3. The Menu Matters – There should be a certain amount of variety in the spread laid out before your guests, it should look inviting, and it should be something special for the holidays. Most people walk away from an occasion remembering the food, first and foremost, and holiday parties are ALL about small plates with an array of goodies. I try and make sure there are vegetarian options, something substantial for the carnivorous guests, and a healthy mix of sweet and salty options. I avoid becoming stressed and overwhelmed by the menu by making out my menu a couple of weeks before the big day and chopping, dicing, and mixing as much as possible a day in advance of the big party.

4. Set the Atmosphere With Music – I am extremely aware that music may be the most subjective of all art forms. Plenty of arguments have arisen in our household about the selection of music at any given time or event. Even with that being the case, put some holiday music on in advance of your guests’ arrival time. It does not feel very jolly or festive to walk into a silent house or with only a few people standing around awkwardly, trying to make conversation. Music can put your guests at ease and be an inadvertent icebreaker to get that party started, as the kids like to say. It is difficult to imagine anyone disagreeing over Nat King Cole’s “Chestnuts Roasting On An Open Fire” playing on your sound system. It just does not get any more Christmas-y than that.

5. Mingle! – Odds are, if someone is attending your holiday party, then he or she probably likes you and wants to visit and catch up with you, and this is the season for that. I know firsthand that being a hostess can be an all-consuming task, and you feel the need to constantly be cleaning and keeping everything in order. That sink full of dishes can wait until the following morning, though. Do as much cooking and cleaning in advance, and you can feel comfortable mingling and partying the night away. Cheers!

Defy Your Kin: Spoonbread, Not Dressing

Spoonbread commands a spotlight and defies its kin – cornbread, dressing, cheese grits, corn pudding – in categorization.

Is it a bread? A casserole? Labels, schmabels. It is a lovely, fluffy, and creamy side dish, yet it’s hard not to view it as the star in any meal in which it’s served.

If you are planning on having turkey for Thanksgiving, do you really need a big pan of dressing, too? Not necessarily. Substitute spoonbread for the dressing, especially if you are pressed for time.

Though your mother-in-law may get miffed, tell her you are going to start a new tradition. Pour a strong one then sit back and wait for the fireworks.

Spoonbread is easier to make than cornbread dressing. It takes much less time to prepare, as dressing requires more time to make a bold and savory chicken broth. Simply, spoonbread is a big bang for the bite, easy to stir up and bake for a Sunday dinner or a special occasion.

You could argue that spoonbread is more closely related to cheese grits, but it is bready like cornbread and so moist that it requires a spoon to eat, thus, its name, though the origin of the name has been the subject of at least one debate.

While many point to the need to eat spoonbread with a spoon as giving rise to its name, according to Kelly Brant, writing in the Arkansas Gazette, Native Americans prepared a dish called “supawn” or “suppone,” a porridge made with ground corn, which could be the genesis of the dish and its name. Kelly gives a great all-around history and some recipes. Check her article out, if you have time. 

https://www.arkansasonline.com/news/2014/oct/22/spoonbread-splendid-20141022/

The main note I would give about spoonbread is to keep it simple. I found many great variations, and I got lost in recipes that add heavy ingredients that make it weighty with flavor distractions. It’s much better appreciated for its airy texture, and often onions, peppers, and garlic frame the standard Southern flavor profile just right.

If you are willing to sacrifice a little fluffiness for extra flavor, bacon, chives, and shoepeg corn could be great additions. One version I tried included chorizo, and it came out flat. So, be careful if adding meat and watch the total amount of fat going into the recipe. You don’t want the leavening agents to fight too hard for lift.

I used baking powder even though I was also using self-rising cornmeal. It worked out just fine. If you want some extra fluffiness, you can separate the egg whites from the yolks. Whip the whites until they peak then fold them last into the batter. Also, you can use either whole milk or buttermilk, the latter adding a layer of background flavor that many will find appealing, but buttermilk does have less fat, so that substitution can impact the texture. 

The recipe that I tried that had a great balance of flavor and the perfect texture is one I found in Texas Monthly Magazine.

https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/jalapeno-jack-spoon-bread/

So, when you are planning out your Thanksgiving menu, embrace change! Be brave! Defy your kin …

Jalapeño Jack Spoonbread

4 TB butter, divided
1 large onion, diced
2 medium or 1 large shallot, diced
2 fresh medium jalapeños, diced (seeds and ribs removed if desired)
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 cups whole milk
1 cup self-rising cornmeal
2 tsp baking powder
4 large eggs
4 oz. pepper Jack cheese, shredded
1/4 tsp salt

Directions

In large skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add onions, shallots, and jalapeños and cook, stirring often, 7 to 9 minutes, or until soft. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute longer, until softened. Remove from heat.

In a heavy saucepan, slowly bring milk to a boil over medium heat stirring often to avoid curdling. Slowly stir in cornmeal until mixture is the consistency of a heavy paste. If it’s too thick to stir, add a splash of milk and continue stirring. Remove from heat and allow to cool for a few minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Stir butter and baking powder into cornmeal mixture. Add eggs 1 at a time to cornmeal mixture and stir until completely mixed. Fold onion mixture into cornmeal mixture, along with cheese and salt.

Pour into greased 2-quart baking or casserole dish. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until firm and golden.

The Holy Grail: Detroit Pizza

Detroit, Michigan: the grittiest city in the United States. To know Detroit is to love Detroit. You gotta have a lot of heart, pride, and strength to fight everybody all day, every day.

Detroit has been through some rough years between the car industry pulling out and leaving her for dead and decades of mismanagement and bad choices by the powers that be.

But folks, I am here to tell you loud and clear that the city of Detroit is far from dead. You don't have to look very far to see that her heartbeat has been fueled and fed by the people and the food. She is making a comeback like champions do - a "hold my beer" moment of epic proportions.

Community feeds itself literally, figuratively, and spiritually as we come together to break bread at the table. This is always the way. 

Food brings people together, feeding not only our bodies but our minds and our souls. Each of us brings something different to the table, a favorite dish from grandma, a memory or a story, identifiers of who we are and where we come from. 

In every community and culture, the table exists in some form, a place of generosity, unity, and love where we are our best selves. Detroit embodies this spirit at all her tables, and she welcomes you to sit, share and eat.

The food scene in Detroit is intense. A homage to the people and places where their families' stories began. The table is set with food from all corners of the world.

No dish says this more than Detroit Pizza. A Hot Rod version of Sicilian pizza, it hits hard and fast and leaves a lasting impression. By all accounts, the first Detroit Pizza was made by Italian immigrant Gus Guerra in 1946 at the bar Buddy's Rendezvous. Gus wanted to add a version of Sicilian pizza to the lineup, a dish he remembered from sitting at his grandmother's table. Sicilian pizza is square or rectangular in shape, so how to do this?  

At the time, car production was happening across the city of Detroit. In every factory was a small steel utility tray used for transporting small parts, nuts, screws, etc. Buddy thought the trays might work for his pizza as they were plentiful, square in shape, and made of steel which conducts heat extremely well.

The rest is history.

Detroit Pizza was officially born, and in my humble opinion (and Chicago, I apologize in advance), it is, in fact, the Holy Grail of Pizza. 

The crust, oh the crust … light, airy, yeasty focaccia bread, saturated with extra virgin olive oil, the slightest bit of chewy goodness in the center, the perfect bite of crisp on the outside. The entire crust is encased with caramelized and slightly burnt cheese that oozes like molten lava down the sides and into the corners, awakening all of your senses and whipping your taste buds into a state of euphoria. Covered with garlicky pepperoni, sweet Italian sausage hinted with fennel, the earthy undertone of oregano, and the humble and pure tomato sauce. Ingredients joined together in holy matrimony for all time. Hallelujah and amen, brothers and sisters. This is Detroit Pizza. It ain't gonna be easy, but it is gonna be great, just like the city of Detroit.

*This recipe and process will take 3 days. I like to start the dough on Thursday and make the pizza on Saturday. Plan. Like all great things, it takes time. 

Dough Ingredients

3 cups 00 flour
¼ cup semolina flour
1 TB sea salt
1 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp active dry yeast
1¾ cups warm water
2 TB extra virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing pan on baking day

Dough Directions

In a large bowl, mix all dry ingredients (both flours, salt, sugar, and yeast), and whisk together to fully incorporate all ingredients.

Pour warm water over dry ingredients and begin stirring until flour is fully incorporated and a sticky dough starts to form. You may need to add a touch more water than the recipe calls for, depending on the day. Once the dough is ready, we will transfer it to another container for the rise.

In a large plastic bowl or container, add the olive oil. Using your hands, rub the olive oil all around the bottom and sides of the bowl or container. Transfer the dough to the greased container and roll around the bowl, making sure to completely coat the dough.

Cover the bowl tightly and place in the fridge for a minimum of 8 hours (overnight) or preferably for 2 days.

The 2-day rise is what will give you the closest texture to authentic Detroit Pizza.

Tomato Sauce Ingredients

1 can crushed tomatoes (28 oz.)
2 cloves chopped fresh garlic
2 TB tomato puree or paste
4 TB extra virgin olive oil
4 TB good red wine
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
6-8 whole fresh basil leaves
1 TB granulated sugar
1 tsp dry oregano
1 tsp sea salt (kosher salt can be substituted)
½ tsp ground black pepper
Pinch (roughly ⅛ teaspoon) dried red chili flakes

Tomato Sauce Directions

Add all ingredients to a saucepan (use a big enough pan that the sauce has room to cook and move) and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. You are cooking just enough to get all the rawness cooked out of the canned tomatoes and let the ingredients come together.

Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Store in an airtight container overnight if using the next day.* Sauce can be used on the same day if desired.

.*I prefer to make the sauce 1 day ahead because the flavors pop after sitting overnight.

Ingredients/ Toppings for Pizza

12 slices of large pepperoni
4 oz. raw sweet Italian sausage
6 oz. block of Mozzarella cheese, shredded using a box grater
6 oz. block of Monterey Jack cheese, shredded using a box grater
3 oz. White cheddar cheese, shredded using a box grater.
1 ½ teaspoon dried oregano
1 10 x 14 Detroit Rectangle Steel Pizza Pan - if you want to make this pizza properly, then you must have one of these pans, and it must be steel, not aluminum.
Extra virgin olive oil for greasing
Parmesan or Pecorino cheese, to taste, optional*

*I always have a small wedge of Parm or pecorino in my fridge. As soon as my pizza comes out of the oven, using a Microplane or small cheese grater, I grate the cheese over the entire pizza. But this step can be omitted per your taste, and you can use as much or as little as you like.

Pizza Instructions

Pull out pizza dough and let it sit for 2 hours before using. You need the dough to be at room temperature so it will be easy to work with in the pan.

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees for 30 minutes prior to cooking the pizza. If you have a pizza stone, place it on the middle rack during preheating. If you do not have a pizza stone, do not stress. You may have to cook your pizza for a slightly longer time, but it will work.

While the oven is preheating, get sauce on the stove at a low temp. You do not want it to cook but to loosen up slightly and be warm all the way through.

In a large bowl, mix grated cheeses evenly. Set aside.

Put 2 tablespoons of olive oil in the pan, and using your hands, rub all along the bottom and sides of the pan, completely covering.

Dump pizza dough, including all the olive oil, directly into the center of the pan. Using the tips of your fingers and working from the center out to the edges, pat dough out ( like you were playing the piano) until dough reaches the edges and corners. Be patient, and just keep pressing gently until the pan is covered.

Sprinkle dried oregano over the entire crust. Cover the entire crust with the grated cheese mixture, and this is KEY: make sure you sprinkle cheese all along the edges and corners so that when it cooks and melts, it will "burn" on the outside of the crust. This is one of the main things that will give you a true Detroit crust.

Cover the crust with pepperoni slices. Layer sweet Italian sausage, tearing off tiny little knobs as you go. A small bowl of warm water to dip fingers in as you work with the sausage helps immensely with the stickiness.

Take a large spoon and dot tomato sauce across the top of the pizza. You do not want to spread the sauce out; leave it as is.

Slide the pan into the oven (on a pizza stone, if using) on the center rack and bake for 20 minutes. Every oven is different, y'all, so you may need slightly less or slightly more cooking time. You are looking for dark crispy edges, melted lava-like cheese, and sausage bubbling clear juice. Then once you have determined the pizza is cooked, turn your broiler on high and cook for up to 5 more minutes until the cheese begins to bubble and is lightly browned. The broiling helps to ensure the entire surface of the pizza has an even melt with the cheese, which gives the texture that stringy pull we all look for in pizza, especially pizza right out of a pizza oven to the table. Just be sure to watch vigilantly during this step and pull out before it gets too dark.

Pull the pan out VERY carefully, your pan and oven will be screaming hot, and the chances of getting burned are high.

Set pan on the stove, and grate the Parm or pecorino over the top if desired. Using a spatula, lift the entire pizza out onto a cutting board, and using a pizza cutter, slice in squares. Serve immediately and rejoice in this beautiful thing you have just created. It only gets easier the more you make the pizza.

Notes: 

* I normally get someone to hold the cutting board when I lift pizza out of the pan. It can be tricky until you get the feel. Go slow your first time, and let the pizza cool a little if you need to. Another technique that works is holding the pan with good oven mitts on, slightly tilted over the cutting board, and using the spatula to slide out of the pan onto the board.

*Detroit Pizza uses a cheese referred to as "Brick Cheese," which is usually mixed with Mozzarella. Brick cheese is very hard to source in the south. However, with a little mixing and matching, I have developed a cheese blend with the proper consistency and a flavor that is very close. If you can find Brick cheese in your area, I recommend using it in place of my cheese mix for authenticity.

The Dos and Don'ts of a Dinner Party

Considering hosting a dinner party? Here are nine tips from GTC contributor Mary Margaret White on how to (and how not to) tackle formal entertaining.

1. Do choose a singular inspiration for the party and let that be your guide. 

When my mother died, I called on the women in our playdate group to please come help me sort through her things. My mother’s greatest joy was being a host, and she had the serving pieces to prove it: multiple sets of china, dozens of platters, more barware than one could count, and yards upon yards of table linens, napkins, and doilies. Doilies for days. 

On this particular day, most of the women had been assigned to the bedroom closets to pack Mama’s clothes, a task I simply could not bring myself to face. My friend, Claire, however, found herself in the laundry room on a stepladder. High above the washing machine, she discovered yet another trove of water goblets and wine glasses. We laughed and groaned at yet more glass to sort, and all stood befuddled when Claire pulled down a very curious set of twelve…brandy snifters? Bud vases? Soup bowls? For the life of us all, we could not figure out what these delicate glasses, each with a small carafe that fit neatly on the rim, could be used for. 

I painstakingly wrapped each, taking care to separate the cup from the carafe, and labeled the box “odd glassware.” Months later, as I gradually unpacked boxes from Mama’s house to find a new home for her things in my own already crowded cabinets, it dawned on me that the curious barware from high above the washer was not barware at all; it was a set of individual shrimp cocktail serving pieces. 

That was the moment I decided to have a dinner party. 

2. Don’t invite guests before counting the number of seats at your dining table. 

I decided right away that I would invite the same women who helped me discover the shrimp cocktail glasses to my first dinner party. So without hesitation, I invited five women and their spouses to a “Valentine’s Day Date Night Dinner Party.” Including myself and my husband Barry, it made for the perfect twelve-person event. Thanks to Mama, I had sets of twelve in everything we needed. Except for room at the table. 

You see, in addition to inheriting the shrimp cocktail glasses, I also inherited my mother’s dining table. And while I certainly had the three additional leaves to make room for twelve, I quite literally didn’t have the square footage. My husband and I considered dividing the group and seating six in the dining room and six in the breakfast room, but that didn’t sound nearly as fun as everyone gathered together. Ultimately, we rearranged the breakfast room furniture and got out the table saw. With some careful measuring and a quick run of plywood through the noisy machine, we managed to extend our breakfast table to seat, snuggly, twelve adults. No one was wiser for the wear as, of course, Mama had the perfect tablecloth to make the setting seamless.  

3. Do make lists. 

You’ll need a list for the menu and groceries, one for decorations and table setting, one for housekeeping, and another for beverages. I divided my grocery list according to where I intended to buy certain ingredients. For example, I knew I needed to go to Costco for strawberries and asparagus, but the rice I like is sold at Whole Foods. In addition to lists, I also highly recommend thinking through the timeline of the week leading up to your party. Try to prep as much as you can in the two-three days leading up to the party so that on the day of, you can have fun setting your table (or sawing a new one), arranging flowers, putting the final touches on all of your hard work, and last but not least, giving yourself enough time to shower and dry your hair. The primary lesson here is that you cannot do it all in one day, so be honest with yourself about your strengths and weaknesses when it comes to time management and plan accordingly. 

4. Don’t attempt all new recipes. 

Recipe research for the dinner party was one of the most fun aspects of planning, and it helped me think through what was feasible to cook the day of and what could be prepared ahead of time. I perused different methods for preparing the shrimp cocktail appetizer and pulled out each of my vintage community cookbooks to try and find an entree that would stay true to the 1970s vibe of our first course. I considered attempting beef wellington, but it sounded complicated and expensive, and I ultimately landed on a dish that I often make at home: sheet pan chicken cordon bleu. Thanks to a pro tip from my fellow GTC writer, Maggie Lyon, I elevated the cordon bleu with a new recipe for garlicky dijon aioli and topped it with fresh, minced herbs. Sticking with a dish that I know people enjoy and that I’m confident in preparing gave me a lot of peace of mind when it came down to putting things in the oven. 

5. Do give your guests some friendly instruction. 

Dinner parties are rare in this day and age, and eating formally in someone’s home is quite different from going out to a nice restaurant. Help everyone feel comfortable by giving them a bit of friendly instruction. Tell people where you’d like them to put their purses and coats (i.e., not on the counter space that you need for cooking!), or point them to a designated space where you’d like people to pour wine or mix cocktails. I made a seating chart and put place cards at each table setting, separating couples to encourage conversation. 

At our Valentine’s dinner party, I arranged the main course on the dining room table buffet-style while everyone chatted and had a pre-dinner beverage. I served the shrimp cocktail tableside, and once we were done with the first course, I invited everyone to grab their plates and help themselves. But I failed to tell them where. A line formed at the empty stove from which we usually serve supper. After a good laugh, guests found their way to the food in the dining room and fixed their plates. 

6. Don’t spend more money than you need to. 

It is very tempting to buy all new placemats or splurge on expensive flowers when planning a dinner party. None of this is necessary because all folks really care about is being together. Set a budget and try to stick to it. If you have money after purchasing all of your ingredients and groceries, then go crazy with new napkin rings and peonies.

7. Do give yourself a lot of grace. 

It is more than likely that you don’t have a personal staff and that all of the planning, cooking, and cleaning will fall squarely on your shoulders. It is perfectly fine if the cake falls in the middle or if you never get around to crafting that specialty cocktail that you had in mind for the evening. Think about what you most enjoy about hosting (decorating your table or preparing a special dish) and what you don’t (making desserts or cleaning your house). In my case, baking isn’t my passion. Next time, I’ll take up an offer from a guest to bring a dessert or simply budget extra money to buy a nice cake.

8. Don’t wait to do the dishes. 

I cannot understate the number of dishes that will be awaiting you at the end of the evening. Do not get overwhelmed! Think of the dirty plates and wine glasses as a symbol of your hosting success. I also find that it is much easier to push through cleaning when you are still high on endorphins from a fun night with friends than it is the next morning when you are tired and facing the chore of putting everything back where it belongs. 

9. Do host a dinner party at least once, and then you never have to do it again. 

When I was a young bride, I envisioned myself hosting dinner parties with all of the beautiful things we were gifted. Certainly, I’ve hosted my share of cookouts, holiday gatherings, and birthday parties and made good use of many of the lovely items from our registry. But I have never used them all at once as we did for the Valentine’s Day Date Night Dinner Party. My desire to host a formal dinner party has officially been satisfied…and it’s quite possible I may never do it again. 

Pouring One Out for Ravine

I was recently alerted by bestie, and GTC blog partner Cameron Abel, that Ravine in Oxford, Mississippi, was closing its doors for good.  I had literally just eaten there with my husband less than two days before I received the sad news.  Per usual, our meal that particular evening had been spectacular with us feasting on duck breast on wild rice pancakes, and some heavenly devil’s food cake topped with homemade cream.

I took the news hard, and I could not help but ask myself: why do I feel this emotional about a restaurant closing?  After a (tiny) bit of reflection, I realized that not only do I find dining out to be enjoyable, but it has always been a comfort to me as well.  Most of my happiest memories in life are of times out with friends and/or my husband involving lots of laughs, bonding, and lively conversation over a good meal with a cocktail in hand.  Doing all of this at a special restaurant can turn a gathering into an “experience.”

Ravine is a special restaurant. A special place.  It opened 15 years ago with owner, Chef Joel Miller, at the helm. When my husband and I started dating 14 years ago this was one of the places he took me to dinner when he came to visit me while I still lived in Oxford. We returned several times over the years when coming in for a night or two, including for dinner with a group of my law school classmates for a little reunion last year.

When discussing where to make reservations for the dozen or so of us, I piped up quickly and said “we HAVE to eat at Ravine.  It is the BEST.”  We did, and everyone was delighted with the meal, the atmosphere, and the service. Plates shared that evening included an avocado and crab salad, housemade papardelle pasta with fresh veggies (perfect for one of my vegetarian friends), and some to-die-for pecan pie.

Located in a large, rustic and charming cabin in the woods a few miles outside the City of Oxford, Ravine was always about using locally sourced foods, including some items grown in its own garden outside the cabin. Thus, the menu was ever-evolving and always fresh. 

Understandably, Chef Joel, a true culinary artist, is exhausted after surviving a crippling pandemic, which put countless businesses and restaurants out to pasture, and an economy, which is making quality service harder and harder to maintain. Chef Joel has publicly expressed that he needs a break, but he should know that he and it will be missed by many of us.  

So I am pouring one out for Ravine today, but hoping Chef Joel will be back with something equally as exciting and interesting in the near future.

www.OxfordRavine.com

A Food Hangover Like None Other – Part 3 (Doing Dinner Right)

Once it reaches the hour for evening cocktails and dinner in The Big Easy I, admittedly, have probably already overindulged in some really rich food and libations several times over throughout the day.  I find this is easily cured, though, with a little afternoon nap to recharge my hunger and thirst batteries.

Our third, and final part, in this series on NOLA is going to close out with some of the finest places in the world to eat dinner.  New Orleans can go toe to toe with any other city in the world when it comes to dinner, as far as I am concerned, and I always seem to enjoy my evening pre-dinner drinks in NOLA just a little bit more than any place else.

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

The “Brennan” name is synonymous with New Orleans dining at this point, and the family has perfected the art of hospitality, tremendous service, and scrumptious food at all of its NOLA eateries.  However, it is also one of mine and my husband’s favorite place to pop in for pre-dinner cocktails is Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse on Iberville Street.  The bar is exactly our kind of vibe with its soft and inviting lighting, rich colors and sumptuous décor.  It gives off big “Rat Pack” vibes, and the service is always on point.

www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com

Patrick’s Bar Vin

This is a recently discovered find, which was recommended to me by some fellow NOLA devotees and foodies, and they could not have been more right in nailing what I like in a bar and lounge atmosphere.  Specifically, this is a wine bar with dozens of champagnes and wines from which to choose.  While it might sound a bit persnickety, it is a favorite place to unwind for many locals who do not have an ounce of pretension about them.  Located in the historic Hotel Mazarin on Bienville, it is in walking distance of all places in The French Quarter and worth a look and see.

http://www.patricksbarvin.com

Antoine’s

Like a mother saying she has a favorite child, I feel guilty saying I have a favorite place to eat dinner in New Orleans.  These places are all just so dang good, but Antoine’s holds that special place in my heart.  Being New Orleans’ oldest restaurant (opened since 1840), is a major part of the romance and allure of Antoine’s for me.  Still run by the ancestors of Antoine Alciatore, it is now five generations going strong.

Almost every sitting U.S. President has been through the doors of Antoine’s to indulge in its French-Creole cuisine, old world service, and birthplace of the Oysters Rockefeller.  When dining here, it feels as though I have been transported back in time.  Classic entrees include my go to, the Pompano Pontchartrain – a pompano filet topped with the freshest poached jumbo lump crabmeat and white wine sauce.  A little French onion soup to start, and all the French wine I can handle, makes me a happy, gluttonous little diner.
https://antoines.com

G.W. Fins

Relatively new compared some more “famous” NOLA eateries, G.W. Fins opened in 2001, and Chef Michael Nelson is at the helm.  An expert in fish, as it were, everything on his menu is FRESH.  The menu is printed daily, so the dishes offered on any particular day are of the highest quality.  

On a recent outing for dinner, I was struck by the incredible level of customer service here.  The staff was attentive, polite, and well versed on everything listed on the menu.  Everyone in our group ordered something different, and we could not stop passing around our plates to sample all of it.  Simply put, there is NO substitute for incredibly fresh seafood, and this place is doing it exceedingly well.  Everything from the lobster dumplings (swimming in rich lobster butter) to the parmesan crusted sheepshead was a reminder that these chefs know what they are doing at Fins.

If you are a shameless oenophile like me, it is worth noting G.W. Fins has been awarded the “Wine Spectator Award of Excellence” for the past twenty years and counting, so treat yourself to a glass (or bottle) if you make your way to Fins.

www.gwfins.com

Herbsaint

Located on St. Charles Avenue in the Business District, this place goes a little outside the typical New Orleans flavor box.  It mixes Southern cuisine with a dash of Italian fare on the side (think rich deviled eggs with homemade mayonnaise followed by a plate of housemade spaghetti with a fried, poached farm egg atop it).  No one ever said you are going to lose weight in New Orleans. Ever.

Definitely not stuffy, Herbsaint makes the most out of a small space, so expect to sit close to others, but it adds to the trendy ambience.

www.herbsaint.com

Doris Metropolitan

I will be the first to admit that when I first heard of Doris Metropolitan, I thought I am not going to New Orleans to eat at a steakhouse.  This place continued to come up in conversation, however, so the hubs and I made our way to Doris.  To say we were proven wrong would be an understatement.

Our experience started with exotic cocktails consisting of tequila in a glass lined with spicy sumac on the rim (fire!) and a plate of artisanal cheeses.   We moved on to tenderloins with a side of bone marrow, and I thought I had died and gone to steak heaven.  In short, the best damn steak I ever ate.  Period.  

The wine selection at Doris is so extensive one could get overwhelmed by all of the options but I, for one, appreciate getting lost in all of the regions and varietals from which to choose.  We settled on a Barbaresco and waddled out full and happy.

www.dorismetropolitan.com

Galatoire’s

I will say it.  I have the mindset of an old person.  Bourbon Street is just not my cup of tea, but one will inevitably end up on Bourbon street when visiting.  The place that will get me out on Bourbon Street in a heartbeat, mind you, is Galatoire’s.  Open since 1905, and located right smack in the middle of the chaos that is Bourbon Street, it is fine dining mixed with that old world family atmosphere of unpretentious tables and chairs.

Recently, in speaking with a judge whom I highly respect, and it is safe to say he is a man of exacting taste and refinement, he asked me where I liked to eat in New Orleans.  Galatoire’s was the first place of which I thought, and he said “best martinis in the world.”  For me, that was a very high seal of approval.

This is French Creole cuisine at its most decadent.  I feel two pounds heavier when I leave Galatoire’s, but I would not have it any other way.  I cannot get enough of the stuffed eggplant – grilled eggplant stuffed with fresh lump crabment, veggies, and thick ooey gooey meuniere sauce.  I cleanse my palate with a lovely French wine, and move on to a very NOLA kind of dessert:  a homemade bread pudding with banana praline sauce.  Does not get any better than that.

www.galatoires.com

The Small, But Mighty, Peach

The last thirty years of my life have been devoted to my passion for food. I have been on a culinary journey to discover, learn, and create all things beautiful within the realm of food. Whether it be family, friends or community, food is one of the things that brings us together in spirit and space. 

Throughout my journey one of the things that I have discovered is that the simplest foods are, more often than not, the best foods. 

Pure ingredients showcased with seasonal, fresh, and regional items are the items that sing on their own and speak to us to create something beautiful and delicious. 

Mississippi is in full-blown Spring at the moment, and nothing speaks to me in Spring more than fresh peaches.

We show up and show out at our local farmers markets. Sun-ripened field grown tomatoes, okra, yellow squash, cucumbers, watermelons, sugar sweet corn, peas, beans, watermelons, cantaloupes, and peaches. Simply put, there is no other region in America that can rival the produce we grow in the South.

The first peaches are just beginning to come into season and, while they are small, they pack a punch. The smell of a perfectly ripe peach is intoxicating and tends to work us Southerners into a frenzy. The anticipation builds for that first bite of the first peach of the season.  You don't care that sticky peach juice will cover your face, arms and probably ruin a perfectly good shirt.  

When word hits the street that the peaches are in, you run – don’t walk! - to the local market to beat our beloved grandmas to the prize. There’s nothing like getting snaked on by a sweet little grandma for that last basket of peaches. She will knock you down without a second thought.

When picking out the perfect peaches the first thing you should ask yourself: “Does it smell like a peach?” You should be able to smell the sweet aroma of ripe peaches as you near the produce bin. No smell? Then, folks, just keep moving, as these are suspect, and you will experience feelings and emotions of great loss and disappointment if you bite into a mealy and tasteless peach. Go toward the light, or the smell, in this case.  

We are very fortunate in North Mississippi to have Cherry Creek Orchards out of Pontotoc, and you should have no trouble finding these delectable little fruits at the farmers’ markets, produce stands, or directly from the source.  

I would be remiss in my duty as a peach lover and a Southern chef if I did not also mention Chilton County, Alabama peaches, which are always good, but are exceptional this year, and again, you should have zero trouble laying hands on them during peach season. 

One of my favorite things about peaches is the versatility they offer the home cook. Of course, they are great for desserts - seriously, who does not like peach cobbler? 

But you can also make bruschetta with goat cheese, a peach gazpacho, a Havarti and prosciutto grilled cheese with fresh peaches, or an endless array of peach salads. 

Peach and halloumi salad is the recipe I am going to share with you. Halloumi is a semi-hard cheese made from a mix of sheep and cow’s milk. It has a chewy texture and a natural saltiness. It is readily available in bigger grocery stores. You will love this salad: it's simple, quick, and delicious.

Peach and Halloumi Salad

Ingredients

6 Genoa salami slices
1 package Halloumi cheese, about 8 oz., sliced in ½ inch slices
3 peaches, peeled and sliced
6 kalamata olives, pitted and sliced in half
½ small red onion, sliced paper thin
6-8 sugar snap peas, sliced in half
1/2 small Fresno chili, diced extra small
2 TB extra virgin olive oil
4 TB aged balsamic vinegar
Fresh cracked black pepper
1/2 charred lemon (see Notes)

Instructions

1. Crisp Genoa salami slices in small skillet like you would bacon. Crumble the crisped slices.

2. Take a large sauté pan and heat on medium high heat. Place Halloumi slices in a dry pan and cook until golden on one side. There will be a little moisture; don't panic. Flip over and do the same for the other side. 

3. Take Halloumi slices out of the pan and place directly on a nice serving platter. Line them down the center of the platter or any way you like, as long as the cheese is the first item on the platter. 

4. Next, place the sliced peaches along the sides of Halloumi, and sprinkle with olives, onion, peas, Fresno chili, and the crumbled, crispy Genoa. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle cracked black pepper over the dish. Drizzle balsamic vinegar over the top and place charred lemon on the side. 

NOTES: 

For charred lemon, simply slice a lemon in half and place sliced side down in a hot skillet until lemon develops a lovely caramelization. Doing this with the lemon wakes up the flavor and brings all the juice out of the lemon.

Make this platter literally right before you sit down to eat. Be sure to have all ingredients completely prepped and ready to go before cooking the Halloumi cheese, as you will assemble the salad on the serving platter immediately after you heat the cheese.

The Peaches used in this photo are Chilton County Peaches.

Kalamata Olives were used for this dish, but a pitted Cerignola green olive would make a great substitution if you prefer a less salty olive.

Leave the Salami off and you have a beautiful vegetarian side.

Do not use any salt in this dish.

Encourage your guests to use a squeeze of the lemon as it will not only wake up the dish but their palates as well.

Tarragon Butter: A Lesson in Versatility

Earlier this month, we gathered with friends and strangers to celebrate a life taken too soon, that of beloved Mississippi outdoors writer Bobby Cleveland. 

Bobby Cleveland may have been best known for the scenes and stories he shared in his long time Clarion-Ledger column on hunting and fishing, but those who knew him best remember him for his wicked humor, good taste in music, and incredible skill in the kitchen. At the memorial, Bobby’s closest friends and family told side-splitting stories of their times together, and each recounted at least two or three meals, recipes or cocktails that they loved most when shared with Bobby. 

This recipe for Tarragon Butter came to mind as one of Bobby’s fishing buddies recounted a trip to South Louisiana that resulted in a sizable catch of red drum and an encounter with a machete-bearing Cajun. Much like this recipe, the story illustrated the value of versatility in a life well lived. Some days you catch the limit, and others, you catch a buzz and create memories that carry on long beyond our earthly days. 

My mother, Sandra Miller, is the culinary mind behind this recipe. She often kept it in the refrigerator for a quick meal of fish or shrimp, and it is equally as good slathered on French bread and toasted as a savory side to beef, chicken and pork. And while I haven’t tested it yet, I’m most certain that this compound butter would make delicious roasted potatoes. 

Tarragon Butter

¼ cup butter, softened 
1 shallot, minced
1 TB tarragon, minced (1 tsp dry) 
1 TB chives, minced (1 tsp dry) 
1 ½ tsp parsley, minced (1 tsp dry)
⅛ tsp black pepper 
1 TB Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, pressed 
1 tsp Mrs. Dash (salt free lemon pepper or garlic herb flavor) 
½ tsp lemon pepper 

Combine all ingredients and mix well. Brush on seafood or bread. 

Catfish with Tarragon Butter

Season catfish with salt and pepper. Brush fish with tarragon butter, making sure to cover fillets evenly. Squeeze half a lemon over the buttered fish. Bake at 375 for 18 minutes, and finish by broiling on high for 3 minutes. Ladle liquified butter over fillets and serve with lemon wedges. 

Chicken and Dumplings, Just Like Mama Used to Make

Well, sorta. With Mother’s Day coming up, I’ve been thinking of all of my mom’s best recipes. And I would feel bad about changing Mama’s already-perfect recipe if she hadn’t changed my paternal grandma’s already-perfect recipe. 

See, my Daddy liked bone-in dark meat chicken. Only. 

So Gran, always eager to give her only child, Charlie, whatever he wanted, would make that happen for him, even if it meant her casserole had bones in it. 

Mama, being about half as eager to please Charlie, made half of it bone-in and the other half boneless. Normal, reasonable people could eat from one side; Daddy had the bony other side all to himself. And even though it’s shocking, since he passed away, she now makes this cozy casserole entirely without bones. 

When I think of comfort food, I think of Mama’s chicken and dumplings. And while I’ll happily eat Mama’s already-perfect version any time, I have the tendency to make things more flavorful whenever possible. That also means they’re more complicated.

In Mama’s version, you boil a whole chicken and use the broth to boil the dumplings. Then you pour some of the broth, plus a whitewash of milk, butter and flour over the mixture of chicken and dumplings and top with a crust that you roll out from some of the reserved dumpling dough. It’s delightfully starchy, and unlike most chicken and dumplings recipes you’ll see on the Food Network or the first page of a Google search, there are no vegetables to be found. Yum.

I roast the chicken whole (but feel free to use a rotisserie chicken to save time). Then I pull the meat and boil the carcass, along with any of those beautiful pan juices (or the congealed version of that same mixture that you find in the cold rotisserie chicken container), for a couple of hours, then strain for a quick, but rich stock. Next, I boil the dumplings in that stock and use the couple of remaining cups to make a mashup of velouté and bechamel – half stock, half cream sauce. It still gets the 2-for-1 dumpling crust, and there are still no unsightly actual vegetables, but I brush it with melted butter and top with a sprinkle of fresh herbs. 

This Mother’s Day, whether you try my Chicken and Dumplings (or Mama’s, or if you’re brave enough, Gran’s) or something from your own comfort food repertoire, I hope you savor something that makes you remember, honor and celebrate all the mamas in your life. They sure deserve it.

Chicken and Dumpling Casserole

Roast Chicken and Stock
1 (4 lb) whole chicken
2 TB butter, cut in 1/2-inch cubes
2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
8 cups water

Dumplings and Crust
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp Accent
1/2 tsp baking soda
12 TB butter, cut in pieces
1/2 cup buttermilk

Sauce
6 TB butter
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
2 cups stock
1 cup half and half or whole milk
2 TB melted butter

2 TB fresh dill or chives, optional

Directions

Heat oven to 400∞F. Spray small rimmed sheet pan or braisière pan with cooking spray. Place chicken breast-side up in pan. Tuck the cubed butter under skin of the chicken. Sprinkle all over with the 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Roast 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, turning once, until nicely browned and an instant-read thermometer placed in the thigh (without touching the bone) registers at least 165∞F. Transfer chicken to cutting board to rest until cool enough to handle; reserve pan juices. Turn off oven.

In stock pot or large Dutch oven, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, break down the chicken. Pull the meat; transfer to storage container. You should have about 4 cups pulled cooked chicken. Cover and refrigerate pulled chicken. Add chicken carcass (including skin, cartilage and pan juices) to boiling water; return to a boil. Reduce to a simmer; cook 2 hours. Strain stock through mesh strainer into 8-cup glass measuring cup or large bowl; discard bones. You should have about 6 cups of stock. If you don’t, add enough water to make 6 cups. If you have more, that’s fine. Use all of it. Return strained stock to same pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Rinse strainer and measuring cup or bowl; reserve.

While stock is cooking, make the Dumplings and Crust. In food processor, place all Dumplings and Crust ingredients except buttermilk. Process until mixture is uniform and butter is fully cut in, scraping bowl with rubber spatula one to two times during processing. With processor running, stream buttermilk into the mixture until incorporated. Transfer to floured surface and knead lightly until mixture is smooth. Divide into three equal pieces. Wrap one piece in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Using floured rolling pin, roll out the remaining two thirds of the dough to 1/3-inch-thick rectangle. With knife or pizza cutter, cut edges of dough to make a clean rectangle; add scraps to reserved refrigerated dough for crust. Cut dough into 1-inch squares. 

Heat oven to 350∞F. Spray 13x9-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Add dumpling squares to boiling stock and cook 6 to 10 minutes, until they puff up and turn white. Test for doneness. Strain through reserved strainer into the large measuring cup or bowl. You should have about 2 cups thick stock left. Immediately pour dumplings in dish and spread evenly. Spread cooled chicken evenly over dumplings.

Make the Sauce. In 2-quart saucepan, melt the 6 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add the remaining 1/4 cup flour, 1/4 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper and cook 1 to 2 minutes, until thick and beginning to smell slightly nutty. Whisk in the reserved stock and half and half or whole milk. Bring to a simmer and cook 2 to 3 minutes, until thickened. Pour sauce over mixture in pan. 

Prepare the crust. On lightly floured surface using floured rolling pin, roll out the refrigerated remaining third of the dough to a very thin 14x10-inch rectangle. Carefully transfer to casserole dish and tuck edges under. Brush crust with the melted butter. Cut several decorative slits in the crust to allow steam to escape. Bake 40 to 50 minutes, until casserole is steaming and crust is fully cooked. Mixture should be at least 165∞F in center. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with herbs.